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Jug or Not 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: EFR, JSt, 2014
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: Adrian Montano on Jun 3, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Jessica Goff nearing halfway up the second pitch


The first pitch is merely a 5.9 approach to one of the best single pitches of 5.11 climbing on Lemmon. Climbing 'Funny Bone' to the anchors then traversing left to the next anchor is also an option. The start of the second pitch immediately gets your attention with technical, delicate moves. The style changes a bit after surmounting the bulge, but the exposure and the fun don't stop until the bolts do. Most belay the second after lowering to the ledge the pitch starts on.


second pitch can be seen above & to the right of Cryptographer


16 draws
even with 70M rope, lower to anchor at the ledge, tie in, pull rope from top anchor, feed rope through and then lower to ground

Photos of Jug or Not Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the 5.11 pitch, Jessica Goff rappelli...
BETA PHOTO: The start of the 5.11 pitch, Jessica Goff rappelli...

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By Adrian Montano
Jun 3, 2017

Being a pitch off the ground, the 5.11 pitch is seldom climbed. Such fun movement wouldn't be hindered by questionable bits of rock if it got more traffic. Did a bit of cleaning today, but there is still some that I will get to next visit to Boneyard.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 4, 2017

If you lower off the second pitch lower offs back to the belay ledge you can belay someone on TR or pull the rope for so they can lead the pitch as well. Adrian is the only person I have seen belay at the top of the second pitch.

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