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Jug City T 

Jug City 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: B. Schilling (?year?)
Season: Faces West, afternoon sun
Page Views: 67
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 3, 2016

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Description 

A route with OK moves, but the bad rock is a serious detractor, and the grade seems to ignore the compulsory hard, awkward, and unprotected moves over bad rock required to get onto the good part of the climb.
Start on a crumbing slab to get up to a few fairly rotten cracks. I think I recall placing a blue alien in poor rock to protect a 5.10 move, then whilst looking at a grounder from a few meters up, finally placing a red camalot. From there, one can start climbing in earnest on a fairly physical 5.9 or 5.9+. The hard part is over before the fun starts.
Climb up steep flakes, cracks and plates to the top of the rock, taking a bit of a dodgine leftward path at the top (mind the rope drag) to an anchor.
While the book topo suggests a 2-bolt anchor, the text mentions, accurately, a "thread" anchor. We re-enforced that anchor in June 2016 in case some other poor sucker gets convinced to waste good time on this line.

Location 

More or less central to the W. Face of the crag, and just left of the right-most tree at the base of that face. A 5' Boulder sits a few meters back behind the belayer from the start.

Protection 

2x tiny aliens or mastercams, 2x red camalots, and other stuff, with some long slings.


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