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Jug Abuse 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Jeff Pedersen
Page Views: 3,204
Submitted By: J Farley on Aug 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


This is a powerful route with a desperate hard finish at the top. Lots of gaston moves!


This route starts up the slab and heads left. It branches off of Teardrop at the third bolt.


Bolts to chain anchor

Photos of Jug Abuse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shan abusing the jugs
Shan abusing the jugs

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By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c

The Ruckman's succinct wordsmith genius at its finest for this route: "Sophisticated power moves lead to an abusing finish."
After climbing it you may need some re-hab.
By ferrells
Aug 2, 2015

I hear you clip the third or fourth off a mono on this one.
By Paul Robertson
Aug 27, 2016
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

It's not totally necessary to clip off the mono... but with how secure it feels, I do it anyway. One of my favorite routes in AF. Basically 3 distinct boulder problems separated by large jugs. If you know how to rest effectively on the wall, it can go down casually.

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