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Judgito 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Wolfe/Nutting 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: MisterE Wolfe on Aug 23, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

aka "Pine Creek two-step".
Scramble up and right in a gully to the first bolt. Clip two more bolts then get your slab on. Continue up easier terrain to a bulge, then continue left to a sting in the tail. Longer than it looks!

Location 

Same start as Oompa Loompa. Look for bolts to the right of dihedral.

Protection 

10 bolts, Mussy hooks.

Lower off.


Comments on Judgito Add Comment
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By Maidy
Aug 27, 2015

Fun but very technical. This climb will fee somewhat old-school for some folks. Tricky slab move at the start. Finish keeps your attention.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 6, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good route overall, but I had a hard time keeping the rope from going behind my leg at the top due to the placement of the last bolt. To me, the crux felt substantially harder than The High Life or Lizard Gizzards, both established 5.8 friction climbs.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Jan 17, 2017

Agree that the last bolt is not ideal.

Move the bolt? Add one more bolt above the transition?

Feedback welcome - thanks for your thoughts, Todd
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Jan 18, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It's a little hard to remember since that was 7 months ago. I think that if you moved it to one side or the other that would be fine. As I recall, the easier climbing seemed to be to the right, but the bolt better protected climbing to the left?

Anyway, still think it's a good route. Thanks for putting it up. :)

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