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Judgement Day 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 74
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Feb 15, 2017

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FA of Judgement Day (12b), The Crown.

Description 

Another super steep line in the Crown amphitheater; harder for shorter climbers. Knee pads help.

Begin left of a deep V-groove on a clean swath of good rock. Move up the steepest part of the buttress following left-leaning seams to the roof (about .11c to here, stays dry in the rain). Good rest here. Rail right (multiple leg bars), clip a high bolt with a fixed hanger, then up a layback flake (crux) to a jug. Move left, then up, then back right up easier terrain to a fixed anchor.

It is possible to set a TR on this by doing a rappel to the anchor, then clip a few bolts to hold the rope in.

Location 

On the right side of the enormous roof.

Protection 

Bolts. Stick clip the first bolt.


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