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Memorial Day Buttress
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Judas Priest 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bitter, Rotert, Ellison 82
Page Views: 369
Submitted By: Spencer Weiler on Jun 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Is it worth hiking up there? Its a good option after Bong Eater or The Burner routes, but no classic for sure.

Lieback up the lower angle 5.9 corner with great feet and gear to reach the first bolt, after which a fun leg swing mantle move gets you to bolt 2 and a bomber rest. Here, the route diverges two ways. Both are excellent, so do both. Your first option is to head straight up, clipping a bolt over your head and doing a difficult undercling to slapping a wide groove while mantling action onto the slab whereupon you find yourself at the chains. Tricky.
Option 2, and I believe the original way, is to continue traversing out right past 2 more pitons, then pulling the roof again by mantling with a decent chickenhead for a handhold. This felt a bit easier than the direct option, only because it was more obvious.

Location 

While this route is located under the Memorial Day Buttress area and most start from Crescent, I find it easier to approach from Bong Eater. Hike up to Bong Eater from the Park and Ride, then schwak directly east to the boulder talus gully. Hike straight up this talus to the crag, jungle thrashing the last 20 feet to reach the belay stance. Its a right facing corner with roofs at the top on darker granite rock. Look for the bolts. This route sits alone, below and southwest of Memorial proper.

Protection 

Mixed gear/bolts. You will need max 3 cams no bigger than .5 camalot to reach the first bolt after which its all fixed gear to the top. 2 bolt anchor. Recommend belaying 2nd up from top at heinous rope drag ensues while lowering.


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