REI Community
Major Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banana Peel S 
Bananas on Acid S 
Bat out of Hell S 
Bon Bon T 
Buttress Fly S 
Cactus Practice S 
Captain Blueberry S 
Chris's Route (name will change) S 
Demon, The S 
Devil's Plaything S 
Hurt Me Not S 
Juckets & Bugs S 
Liberace's Anus S 
Limp Traddy S 
Major Chingadera S 
Major Major S 
Major Raspberry S 
Milo Mindblender S 
Pimp Caddy S 
Pimp Daddy S 
Pinche Wey S 
Prickly Proctologist S 
Ramp, The T 
She Can Bolt S 
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy S 

Juckets & Bugs 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Dyker ~1990
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,583
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Dec 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
First Crux on Juckets & Bugs


Start on a low-angle left facing dihedral to the first bolt. Clip the first bolt, taking note that it is in an awful spot for the draw. Pass the second bolt to a long easy run-out to the closely spaced 3rd and 4th bolt. Make a big move and head to the anchors.


On the right side of major wall, just to the right of Bon Bon and Hurt me Not. About 30 yards further right are two more bolted routes Milo Mindbender and Major, Major, Major.


4 bolts + Anchors. Not a great route to be falling on, especially down low, potential for decking at the second and third bolt. Occasionally gets bolts added and chopped.

Photos of Juckets & Bugs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jackets & Bugs
Jackets & Bugs
Rock Climbing Photo: Juckets and Bugs
BETA PHOTO: Juckets and Bugs

Comments on Juckets & Bugs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Price
Sep 4, 2007

This is actually one of my favorite routes as a moderate in this area. The tricky start will get your attention, and you get a nice rest before doing the pumpy finish.
By jbak
Apr 11, 2008

Poorly bolted, mostly easy, but decent cruxes.

If you get pumped on this, your endurance blows.
By Dave Wachter
Jan 2, 2009

I love this route as a warm-up, despite the fact that the climbing is not sustained. Gets your head on straight, with delicate footwork at the bottom, and sequency middle/top. I think the middle and upper cruxes are hard for the grade. Although it's not pumpy once you know the sequences, it can be very pumpy as an on-sight (especially if you climb up and down and up and down at the last bolt, like most people do).
By Bob Broilo
From: Socorro, NM
Dec 30, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

FA was Steve Dyker ~1990
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 19, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Currently has 6 bolts, 4 before the easy run out and 2 after.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About