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Juan Tabo Canyon

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Needle, The 
Prow, The 
Waterfall Canyon 

Juan Tabo Canyon Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 35.2329, -106.4644 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,780
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Feb 10, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Map of the Juan Tabo closure area, from the 2009 U...

Juan Tabo Canyon is subject to annual access closures from March 1 to August 15. MORE INFO >>>


Juan Tabo Canyon has its headwaters in the huge west-facing amphitheater south of North Sandia Peak. The north side of the canyon is prominently defined by the massive wall of the Shield. The southern margin of the canyon is formed by the ridge that connects The Needle with The Prow.

Getting There 

Depending on which crag you are targeting, or, sometimes, even which side of the crag you are heading for, the approaches to the climbs in Juan Tabo Canyon may involve either hiking down from the Crest or up from below. For example, the lower crags like UNM Spire and the Prow are commonly approached from below, using the Piedra Lisa Trail to access either the Fletcher or Movie Trails, respectively. Climbs on the eastern side of the Shield are commonly approached from above, from the North Crest Trail, but they may also be reached from below via the Fletcher Trail. Routes on the western end of the Shield may be better approached by the Piedra Lisa and Rincon Spur Trails. Similarly, the Needle may be approached by either dropping down from the North Crest Trail or by coming up from below, going up the Movie Trail or Waterfall Canyon.

Descents off of the Shield may be as straightforward as hiking back to the North Crest Trail, if you approached it from above. Conversely, if you approached the Shield from below, it may be more complicated. One can descend the Knife Edge, although that involves low-fifth-class downclimbing and traversing through the ‘W.’ Alternately, some reports indicate that hiking from the top of the Shield up to the Crest and then taking either Chimney Canyon or the La Luz Trail back to the bottom works.

The eastern portion of the canyon, the part that lies above about 7100 feet elevation and contains all the crags of interest, is contained in the Sandia Mountain Wilderness, with all the attendant USFS restrictions.
In addition, this area of the canyon is subject to annual access closures during the spring and summer, "for the protection of certain rare species of birds," according to the official closure announcement. The closed area includes: the Shield (except the Knife Edge), UNM Spire, the Prow, and the Fletcher and Movie Trails. The official 2009 closure, including a map of the affected area, is here.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.4 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Juan Tabo Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Juan Tabo Canyon:
Knife Edge   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c     Trad, Alpine, 900'   Shield
Southwest Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1300'   The Needle
Procrastination   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000'   Shield
Chicken Chop Suey   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000'   Shield
The Odyssey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 300'   Shield
Slipping Into Darkness   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000'   Shield
Rainbow Dancer   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1100'   Shield
Purple Haze    5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A4+ R     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000'   Shield
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Juan Tabo Canyon

Featured Route For Juan Tabo Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: 2 #4, 2 #5 (could get away with one) and 2 #6 Cama...

Chicken Chop Suey 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a New Mexico : Sandia Mountains : ... : Shield
The start is the same as for the first two pitches of Procrastination. Likely, there are several variations of the start, but once you gain the OW crack the route is pretty straight forward.P1: V0 to 5.4 Start with a technical overhanging pull that pros well with some small gear. Mantle up onto a very easy and gentle slab to a 2BA.P2: 5.8 Another technical start with a high-stepping layback that is well protected leads to stemming as you veer left and away from the ease of Procrastination. Large g...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Juan Tabo Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Juan Tabo Canyon & environs.  From USGS 7.5' Sandi...
BETA PHOTO: Juan Tabo Canyon & environs. From USGS 7.5' Sandi...

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