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El Nino Wall
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Blame It On El Nino S 
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Juan De Fuca S 
Paintbrush Arete S 

Juan De Fuca 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Nick Flores
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-Fall is best
Page Views: 142
Submitted By: Flaco Flores on Oct 12, 2015

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Description 

This starts off easy and slabby and then turns into fun climb with small finger pockets with a few blank sections that can be cruxy. There are some great comfortable ledges to belay from if you climb the route in two pitches. Both pitches are 5.9+ and have a similar blank/tiny pocket crux section just below the anchors.

Location 

The route is located just left of the Paintbrush Arete route on the black/slabby El Nino wall.

Protection 

To climb the entire route in one go (it is 2 pitches) it would be 18 bolts to the top anchors. It is 8 bolts to the first set of chains (lower belay/rappel station) and then 9 bolts to the top chains.
You are able to climb this route with a 60 meter rope in one go, but you will need to rappel from the top chains, to the the lower chains, and then rappel off the route from there. If you have a 70 or 80 meter rope you can be lowered from the top chains to the lower chains and rappel off the route from there.


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