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Joy of Cooking 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Js, RR, SB
Season: All Year
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: Jimbo on Dec 2, 2010

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Description 

Much safer since we replaced the old leepers, and funky pins.
Mental Crux is getting to the 2nd bolt. Physical crux is pulling the roof past bolt 3.
Expect heady thin face climbing and a powerful pull through the roof.
The original route climbed up to the bolt at the bottom of the big corner and belayed. Then went right and climbed up to the right side of the big roofs.
I stemmed up off the bolt and stepped left onto the beautiful plated face that Jambalia and Chip's Roof take to the top, making for a great long pitch.

Location 

Starts in the center of the face directly below the big roofs.
Look for short shallow crack that leads to 3 bolts up to a small roof.

Protection 

Bolts, one of each cam/tcus to 2.5 inches, stoppers, several long slings to lessen rope drag. Belay off gear or slung boulders.
You can down climb off the back or go over the top and rap off the new anchor above Seventh Sojourn.


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By John Steiger
Dec 4, 2010

Thanks for posting this, and replacing the old fixed gear -- you done an old man proud. Can’t believe we put this up 35 years ago this coming June (1976). I was 19, we all had been climbing for 3 years at most, and this was my second FA and first 5.11. At the time, we didn’t have a clue what 5.11 should feel like, so we rated it 5.9+, despite several goes by all of us over three days. I remember copperheads were critical, and the crux was protected by a dubious Leeper Z and LA driven into a loose-looking flake (apparently now the location of the third bolt). On one attempt, SB (Scott Brown) was just about to reach the second bolt when he realized he hadn’t tied in; the rope was just looped through his harness. I believe RR bought the first round that night.
By Jimbo
Dec 5, 2010

Great story John. I cleaned off all the lose bits flake on the face up to the first roof also. It climbs really well now. Your still looking at a big 20 foot swinging whipper if you blow the move to the second bolt but at least everything your crimping and toeing in on is going to stay attached.

Years ago I got on this thing and got the first old leeper clipped but didn't have the courage to do the moves to the second assuming the old leeper would snap like a dried out fortune cookie if I fell before getting to the second bolt

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