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Joy Luck Club S 

Joy Luck Club 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: David Tvedt, 2001
Page Views: 1,142
Submitted By: j-dubs on Jul 8, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Not the best shot of me, but this photo shows the ...

Description 

After a short slab and bulge, launch into a relentless overhang, traversing right (crux?) about six bolts up. The first half features relatively straightforward reaches between good underclings and sidepulls, while the second half has far more holds to choose between, making it easy to get off track. Savor any holds you can pull down on, because there aren't many of them!

There is an optional 5.7 second pitch that tops out.

Location 

JLC is on the right hand side of the overhanging wall. It has chains on two of its bolts and a rightward traverse about halfway up.

You can easily set a toprope on this route. Hike to the top and rappel off a pair of glue-ins (the correct anchor is just below a large bent cold shut) down to the lip of the overhang, where there are two sets of anchors next to each other. The JLC anchor is the one that's to the right and slightly lower, and it's directly across from a tall fir tree. If you set a TR, make sure to put in lots of directionals, as the route traverses a decent amount in addition to being overhung.

Protection 

Bolts (about 9), two-bolt anchor at the top.


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By j-dubs
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Jul 9, 2012

Disclaimer: I haven't sent this route yet, but I've been on it a number of times and it's too good to be left out of the database!
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is one excellent sport climb. Hard almost all of the way, multiple cruxes and rests, super well bolted, and great to project. Get on it if you're up there!
By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Jul 16, 2016

Out of curiosity what's the reason for the chain on the two bolts on this route?