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Joy Loader 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Seth Tart, Dennis Buice, Joy Cox
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 152
Submitted By: S Tart on Jul 11, 2013

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Joy Cox cruzing the lower roof on Joy Loader

Description 

The first few feet of this route look damp and low quality but don't let that deture you from sampling the unusually good roof and the spectacular 100' of climbing above.

Start standing on a handplaced rock in front of the short face leading to the roofs weakness. Map out two or three good holds and a foot chip on the face to help you access the completely sinker right hand seam under the roof. Pull the roof via unforeseen huge holds then grunt and pucker over the lip to the complete stance above (Although the roof pull is on seemingly bomber holds, the moves are very powerful and unprotected; being hardest at the highest point). Up high on the stance get your first piece of gear in a slot out right. Then follow sculpted holds thru a bulge just right of an illuring crack to a good horizontal and your next stance. Move just right into the start of a large crack system and take it to the top. From its terminal point, follow the crack feature 3' right, 6' up, and back left into the main seam. Execute the last deceptively steep push through rock'n side pulls onto easier ground and the anchors.

Note: Be strong at this grade because you dont want to get stuck or fall pulling over the highest part of the roof and any following should be snug (with spotter if possible) through the roof because of rope stretch.

Location 

20' right of Nevermore-11b. Just before reaching the base of the VD buttress, go right thru the rhodos and halfway up a path (about 20') to a small clearing in front of the low roof system.

Protection 

Plenty of very small to medium cams (maybe one larger one) and stoppers. Fixed nut anchors.


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