Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch)
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This route is located on the far right edge of Turkey Tail and is considered a classic.
P1. Locate a roof about 20' up behind a big pine tree. Step off a boulder, and make a long reach between cracks to a fixed pin. The crux section involves strenuous lieback/undercling moves on insecure footholds. It's much harder than it looks. Lucky for you, it's protected by a bolt. Another bolt awaits at the lip of the roof where you can get a rest. Pulling the roof is also strenuous, especially if you're short, then another bad rest, and more hard moves. By the time you get to the slab above, your toes will be thoroughly worked, and the final easy moves will feel hard. A 60' rap gets you back on the ground, but you might need to TR to clean your gear, or have someone follow.
I didn't think it was anything spectacular (I prefer splitter cracks), but it kept my attention and is solid for the grade.
Mostly thin, one hand-sized piece at the start, then everything else is fingers or smaller and at least 4 QDs for fixed pro.
From: Petaluma California
Apr 6, 2008
Redpoint 1997. Do all the pitches. This makes it three star. It is possible to stay right after Rufus all the way to the horizontal.
By Jason Haas
Jan 19, 2014
Joe Crotty, TJ Brumme, and I replaced the bolts on both pitches with 4" stainless steel glue-ins. We were able to reuse several of the same holes, but a few of the other bolts broke while we were trying to extract them, so we had patch and drill a few new holes. Thanks to the BCC for supplying the hardware