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Turkey Tail
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Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 
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Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Leonard Coyne, Henry Lester, Peter Mayfield, 1978
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts, 1 Lead Pin, 4 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,162
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Feb 13, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

This route is located on the far right edge of Turkey Tail and is considered a classic.

P1. Locate a roof about 20' up behind a big pine tree. Step off a boulder, and make a long reach between cracks to a fixed pin. The crux section involves strenuous lieback/undercling moves on insecure footholds. It's much harder than it looks. Lucky for you, it's protected by a bolt. Another bolt awaits at the lip of the roof where you can get a rest. Pulling the roof is also strenuous, especially if you're short, then another bad rest, and more hard moves. By the time you get to the slab above, your toes will be thoroughly worked, and the final easy moves will feel hard. A 60' rap gets you back on the ground, but you might need to TR to clean your gear, or have someone follow.

I didn't think it was anything spectacular (I prefer splitter cracks), but it kept my attention and is solid for the grade.

P2....

P3....

Protection 

Mostly thin, one hand-sized piece at the start, then everything else is fingers or smaller and at least 4 QDs for fixed pro.


Comments on Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) Add Comment
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By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Apr 6, 2008

Redpoint 1997. Do all the pitches. This makes it three star. It is possible to stay right after Rufus all the way to the horizontal.
By Jason Haas
Jan 19, 2014

Joe Crotty, TJ Brumme, and I replaced the bolts on both pitches with 4" stainless steel glue-ins. We were able to reuse several of the same holes, but a few of the other bolts broke while we were trying to extract them, so we had patch and drill a few new holes. Thanks to the BCC for supplying the hardware
By Mark Rolofson
22 hours ago
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I climbed the entire route in 1981 with visiting British climber John Allen. I climbed it again in 1982 with Hugh Herr (who was the first & maybe only person to climb the route with prosthetic lower legs). I climbed the first pitch numerous times between 1981 & 1984.

Pitch 2 ascends the slab with a very thin crack protected by RPs & small stoppers. Reach a horizontal break & clip a bolt. Traverse right to join Roofus at its semi hanging belay. We rated this pitch 5.10d.

Pitch 3 is the second pitch of Roofus (I spelled it Rufus in my 1984 & 1988 guidebooks). This pitch is rated .11d, but the finger jamming moves over the first roof are the hardest moves on the climb. It is easily .12a. It feels especially difficult after doing the first two pitches. There is a short 5.3 fourth pitch to the top.

This is one of the best .12a trad routes on the Front Range with varied climbing & no wide cracks.

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