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Botany Bay a.k.a "The Stadium"
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Jose Conflako 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jamie Coin
Season: All. Morning Sun. Afternoon Shade.
Page Views: 319
Submitted By: BBQ on Jul 28, 2013

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Laybacking the first roof of Jose Conflako, 5.10+ ...

Description 

A stout warm-up. Starts on vertical to semi-overhanging blonde rock with crimpers in between solid, bigger holds.

Layback the first roof and claw and fight your way up and over a series of three roofs on monster jugs. SICK! BIG MOVES! BIG HOLDS!

PUMPY! Keep in mind that this route trends right! Towards the top the temptation to follow a crack up a slabby ledge might lead you too far out left to the point that the final bolt will not be in sight or in easy reach.

Don't freak. Work your way right, reach around the arete and git r' dun! The final roof is the last of about four cruxes that may seem strenuous and a bit scary your first time at bat.

This route might have you doubting if you are ready to graduate from the minors to the big leagues.

Location 

Wall of Fame. Farthest left route at The Stadium.

Protection 

Bring 8 quick draws. Open anchors.


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