REI Community
Discovery Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 
Big Pucker, The T,S 
Broken Arrow S 
Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 
Buffalo Soldier T 
Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 
Cleft, The T 
Cosmos S 
Dead Bird Crack T 
Entrance T,S 
Fat Lips T,S 
Fly By T,S,TR 
Holiday Ordeal TR 
Jorgie's Crack T 
Lithium S 
Lost Horizons T 
Mammary Pump S 
Melvin S 
Nailbox Crack T 
Ordeal T 
Pistol Whipped S 
Plague T,S 
Portent T,TR 
Power Point S 
Racing Stripes T,S 
Straight Up T 
Stupendous Man T 
Swallow Crack T,S 
Trauma T 
Trial S 
Verdict (direct), The S 
Wet Kiss, The S,TR 

Jorgie's Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Barry Bates, Dave Hampton FFA 12/70
Page Views: 2,392
Submitted By: Ian Walters on Jan 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Climber is on Jorgie's Crack; Swallow Crack on lef...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Jorgie's is the very chalked up arching thin crack in between Swallow Crack and Ordeal, some ways down the right side of the Disco Wall. It takes relatively good gear, and packs in some great climbing in its relatively short length. The crux comes as the crack begins to peter out, with a tenuous, off-balance move left.


Thin to medium gear. Two-bolt anchor

Photos of Jorgie's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom following
Tom following

Comments on Jorgie's Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By daniel c
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 10, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Goes 5.9 in the book, a rating that I agree with. Bring nuts and small cams. Piton about two thirds of the way-up helps. Sustained. A great climb but can be greasy from traffic
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Aug 10, 2010

I used holds on the sides and stemmed around the crack to pull myself up, rest, and place gear...made it feel much easier than 10a. Maybe it's 5.9/10a if you only use the crack? Fun climb, either way.
By Randy
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun, but short. 5.9 at most if you use the face holds.
By Keith Forest
Nov 26, 2011

The arete just to the left of Jorgie's Crack goes free at 5.11. Top rope using Jorgie's Crack anchors. Exciting.
By Mei
Jan 30, 2017

Jorgie's Crack is short. However, after clipping the anchor bolts, the leader can choose to continue left and then up to top out on Jorgie's Continuation. (Note, there are also closely spaced bolts going up and right, but that line is not what I'm talking about). After two or three more clips, now, the climber has no where to go but up and over a bulge. The new guidebook rightly calls it wildly exposed. It's rated 10b I think, and the tricky moves are protected by a bolt, but still, be solid at at least high 10's so you can enjoy the excitement. After one more bolt, you gun for the top long ways up. Look for nearby anchor bolts on the ground at the top.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About