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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 104
Submitted By: MikeOH on Feb 27, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Squeezing through the chimney


What a great surprise, I really enjoyed The Whale but this climb is even better. The crux is getting through the first 10 feet of the crack in the very back of the cave. Traverse out from the chock-stones and if you aren't cluster phobic you can squeeze through the chimney. Otherwise dip below and come out the around the side of the flaring chimney until you reach a nice hand crack. From there you can face climb to the top. Look out for loose rock to avoid the unexpected whipper (thank you 0.5)


This climb starts in the back of the cave 20' to the left of The Whale (if looking at the wall from the trail).


BD 0.3 - 4, Tree Anchor 5' from top

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