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Jolly Roger 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Steve Grossman, Paul Davidson, late '70s
Page Views: 3,373
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (76)
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Larry Coats on the second ascent of Jolly Roger. J...


Between Mutiny On The Bounty and Ship Of Fools. Begin at a sharp flake hold. Face climb up to a large flare/groove with difficult pro (a purple TCU is bomber, but you have to go a ways). Pull the cruxy roof halfway up with good gear, and then follow twin cracks (fingers on the left, wide hands on the right) to the rim.


Standard rack.

Photos of Jolly Roger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: fulgham on the fantastic and underrated jolly roge...
fulgham on the fantastic and underrated jolly roge...
Rock Climbing Photo: fulgham gettin' jolly with it....
fulgham gettin' jolly with it....

Comments on Jolly Roger Add Comment
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By Paul Davidson
Apr 23, 2009

FA: Steve Grossman
Pretty sure I was the belayer.
By talkinrocks
From: Boulder, CO
May 28, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route. I had a hard time pulling the roof into the awkward mantle. Flail fest for me on lead, but my partner fired that thing like it was nothing. Loads of good incut edges working up to the roof.
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Jan 11, 2010

I started up this without thin gear - it made the first 20-30' much more exciting.
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 25, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route is great-lowe balls work really well!
By Tradiban
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Yes a little run out but easy climbing in that section. A red ball-nut (I think) would work nicely in that part but a few moves higher there's a bomber purple TCU placement.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 10, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Honestly don't see how this is PG climbing. Bring small gear. There are numerous placements. For PG climbing step to the right and try the start of pilgrim's progress.... Jolly Roger is, however, underrated climbing. This one is stellar.

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