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Jointed Venture 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: B. Crammer, H. Armantrout 1983
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: grk10vq on Apr 16, 2009

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Jointed Venture

Description 

This is a good route to practice fiddling with gear on. Start by clambering up a few blocks using jams, smears and the occasional shallow edge. Climb through flakes following the most profound crack passing both good and marginal placements. Continue on this until the crack dies out. Slope, smear, then insecurely rock your way left onto a large ledge to gain the anchor.

This route is short and almost more work than its worth. The crux sits high and the protection is a bit hard to place. Shaky gear, mixed with insecure stances keeps this line just that, a jointed venture.

Location 

This route lies on the small crag north of Extreme Unction. It sits directly right of Squash Rocker and starts in the crack splitting the three stacked blocks.

Protection 

All gear to a set of hangers. Stoppers, slings, and cams from .2 - #2 bd. At the time of this writing there were two quick links on a two bolt anchor allowing a rap, otherwise perform the half-heinous walk off.


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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Harder than it looks, it's easy to get dragged on the face to the right by pro opportunities. Staying in the crack and the left face is harder. A bit thin in places.
One quicklink left on the anchor.
Bring a spider stick.

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