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Joint Venture 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, and Leah Macaluso
Page Views: 7,803
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Apr 14, 2001

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Adie Drolet makes it look good. Photo: Andy Mann.

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  • Description 

    Lying in the middle of the Lower Animal World cliff, this route leads up thin face holds to a bulging face near the top.

    P1. The route starts below a large roof that is about 30 feet up. It then climbs around the left of the roof, which is followed by easy climbing to the two bolt anchor.

    P2. The second pitch continues up a bolted bulging arete to another set of anchors at the top of the cliff.

    Protection 

    This route can be done in 1 or two pitches, but there are 4 bolts per pitch. A 60m rope is necessary to get to the ground from the top anchors.


    Photos of Joint Venture Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tom working the lower section of Joint Venture.
    Tom working the lower section of Joint Venture.
    Rock Climbing Photo: In between climbs.
    In between climbs.
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the first anchor.
    At the first anchor.
    Rock Climbing Photo: GINO!
    GINO!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ken Parker moving left to the arête.
    Ken Parker moving left to the arête.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ken Parker trying to get established on the jug.
    Ken Parker trying to get established on the jug.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Robbie TRing through the lower crux's thin moves
    Robbie TRing through the lower crux's thin moves
    Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing moves of Joint Venture.
    Finishing moves of Joint Venture.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Eds. The lower yellow dots represent the bolts on ...
    BETA PHOTO: Eds. The lower yellow dots represent the bolts on ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pete climbing Joint Venture at the Animal World.
    Pete climbing Joint Venture at the Animal World.

    Comments on Joint Venture Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 17, 2017
    By Kreighton Bieger
    Jun 12, 2001

    This is a great climb, but the fledgling (flailing?) 5.11 leader might want to bring at least one mid size nut or a #3 or 4 Metolius size for the run from bolts 6 to 7 (counting clipping the lower anchor as a 'bolt'). I found it a little much for my taste, as the climbing got harder there, and the reach was a bit much for my 5'6" self. Otherwise a great route with fun moves below and again up higher.
    By Richard Rossiter
    May 5, 2003

    I seem forever to be in the role of guide book writer. If I go to Manhattan, people stop me and ask how to get to the Trade Towers. As for Joint Venture, the name is a play on Cannabis Sportiva, and on the fact that I did this originally with Leah Macaluso. Leah, being rather short, hated the upper arete. She was my massage therapist as well as a lovely climbing partner. Dan Hare had nothing to do with this route. Leah and I started in the narrow dihedral in the left of the photo via gear, then climbed the arete to the right of Dan''s route. Do you people read guides books or just make this stuff up? Dan's route climbs the steep face just right of the initial arete then takes the upper dihedral just left of the upper arete of Joint Venture. Dan's route is called Feeding the Beast and is rated overall, 12a. The name may be a reference to Dan's insatiable lust for setting new routes.
    By richard magill
    May 6, 2003

    I listed Dan's route on this website as "Beast Food" which is what Rolofson's book calls it. I also gave it the 12b rating that Rolofson listed.

    And as a point of clarification, I think this beta photo is a bit misleading - the anchors shown here are actually the anchors for Beast Food.You have to stay right to get to the anchors of Joint Venture.

    All that aside, Joint Venture is a really fun line on nice stone!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 27, 2003
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    This route can be climbed as an easy 5.10 or maybe an 5.11a, depending upon the line taken. On the upper section, where it follows the arete it is also possible to set right into the dihedral there (still within clipping reach) and stem/palm to the right to pass the crux on the arete.
    By Craig Quincy
    Jul 18, 2003

    If you're thinking of linking up the first part of Joint Venture with Cannabis Sportiva, don't! It's certainly possibly with long slings, but it's not worth the risk to your belayer. There are some gnarly loose blocks in between the two routes that you must traverse across.
    By Kyle Turner
    From: Brighton, CO
    Nov 6, 2006
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Fun route with a thin start and some good steming on the upper "pitch". Easily done as one pitch with a 60m and minor rope drag. Nice climb.
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 8, 2008
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    ALERT: If you climb this to the bolted anchor and then climb 'Cannabis Sportiva', there is a big, TV-sized, loose block about 6' left of the anchor sitting on a ledge. It looks like a great hand jam behind it to make the traverse but - DO NOT PULL ON IT!! We would have thrown this to the ground, but were worried about it eventually rolling to the highway. It certainly needs to come off though.
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 2, 2008
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    IMHO, the lower section goes at 5.10+ for those interested. Watch your rope around the arete and you might want one smallish cam to get to the anchors. Green or Yellow alien.
    By Robb M.
    Aug 31, 2008

    Does anyone know anything about the new bolt line that leaves Joint Venture and goes directly over the roof?
    By SAL
    From: broomdigiddy
    Feb 22, 2009
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

    The second pitch if staying in the crack is pretty stout. I believe it is said to be 5.12.

    It felt pretty darn hard. You can easily finish the route or choose to just climb the arete skipping this crack. Sure is fun climbing though. Really fun as one long pitch no matter how you finish it.
    By John mac
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 7, 2009
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    If only there were about 100' of the lower face! Great route anyway.
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 15, 2009

    Re: Robb M.

    Blockhead .12+.
    By Robb M.
    Jul 23, 2009

    Thanks for the beta Joshua!
    By Top Rope Hero
    From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
    Apr 13, 2010
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    A bit inconsistent, but good times, nonetheless. I didn't find the supposed 5.10 moves around the cruxes, but the 11a move down low and the one up top are each just one-move wonders.

    One thing: I don't understand climbing just the first "pitch," which is only about as tall as Dennis Rodman. Unless you have an old-school, 37ft rope, you should probably think about taking the WHOLE line, young leader. The second "pitch" is wholly different, but just as good, with a little spice if'n you don't have monkey arms. And the overhanging top out jug fest is about as fun a finish as you can ask for.

    And forget the cams--you don't need them for the cruxes. While JV may not be littered with bolts like the rest of Boulder Canyon, it still protects plenty well where you need it with the clips at hand.
    By J P
    From: Denver, CO
    Mar 16, 2012
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    We pulled a tiny post-thaw flake off just above the second bolt, but it didn't seem to impact the climb.

    From above the first bolt to the area just left and under the roof, this climb requires balance and technique more than it requires strength or crimping.

    Don't be scared off by the consensus grade. If you climb in the 10s regularly, you'll be able to do this climb.
    By keith story
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 28, 2012
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Maybe I was having a rough day, but this route caught me ofFguard.

    I think I missed a clutch hold or something, 'cause I had to so some high-brow fandangaling on nail-y stubs to get up the bottom section.

    I hope next time I climb it, I'll have a "a-ha!" moment followed by a face-palm.
    By Larry Shaw 1
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 17, 2017

    Really enjoyed this climb, great movement and interesting holds. The bottom section felt .11- to me moving to the arete around the 4th bolt, and .10ish moving to the arete around the 2nd bolt. The upper section was a fun end to the climb.

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