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Join The Party 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tony Bubb and Jerry Bargo, 6/16/07.
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces E/NE (Sun until noon)
Page Views: 2,092
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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The fun lower crack section.

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  • Description 

    A good route with a great crux. Start by facing the wall at the base of the tree & sneak your way into the corner past the small Mountain Maple Tree, then get some gear. Head up, then up and right on good cracks to reach a steep flake where you can jam a 1.5-2" crack and pinch the flake to pass a steep crux. before continuing up a crack system. After 70', you will come to a bulge. You can place a few cams under it and go right (harder) or left (easier, 3" gear) and up to a small ledge at 85' On the right of this ledge there is a medium-sized pine tree around to the right of you with a sling. If you need more gear- clip that with a runner. This is not the top. Instead, climb on past the ledge (second crux) on some really nice quartz holds and up a little further to another ledge with 2 bolts and rap anchors.

    Rap 98' to the ground on a 60m rope.

    Note: Ron Olsen placed the 2-bolt anchor up top of this at my request, as the rock above is loose or poor in some places and the retreat from the tree skips some nice climbing.

    From the top of Join The Party, you can climb up a bit left of the anchor and traverse right on a ledge past two dead pine trees to a 2-bolt anchor. From here, you can continue up Fields of Gold or Workingman's Blues. See ?beta photo?.


    From the approach to the main wall of Tonnere Tower, keep and eye to the right before you go up and left along the wall's base. You will see a faint trail that goes off right. Head right to the wall. A large pine tree grows a few meters out and right of the base of the wall. The massive roots of the pine form a flat shelf of root and soil as a belay. Just left of you, a crack splits a left-facing, left-leaning ramp from the main wall. The climb starts up this tiny slab and corner to access a very protectable crack and flake system that goes on for ~100 feet. The cracks are discontinuous in spots, so expect to go left or right a little here and there.

    Route #15 in the ?beta photo? [apparently deleted by its submitter].


    A standard rack will do. Beginner leaders might take a double set of cams to prevent placing a certain size (hands to thin hands) and then being out of gear later.

    Photos of Join The Party Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up.
    Midway up.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Join the Party.  Photo by Roslyn B.
    Leading Join the Party. Photo by Roslyn B.

    Comments on Join The Party Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Aug 29, 2010
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    I'm surprised you did the first ascent of this route and graded it Tony, because usually I agree with your grades. I thought this climb was very easy at 5.9+ and fit well with the overgrading at the rest of the crag. Maybe that was what you were going for? Maybe it has gotten easier as it has cleaned up.

    The first ~40 feet are cool. After that it was pretty nondescript until the cool final moves on the quartz crystals at the top. If the middle cleaned up a little more it would get better.

    Also there was a head-sized block loose right below the anchors. We didn't trundle it due to the large amount of people below in the direct firing line.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 26, 2010

    Believe it or not, I was initially accused of sandbagging by the area developers! The grade was reflective of the FA condition lead for a single move up on the quartz up high while cleaning on FA, relative to other routes here. With that considered, it was set to more closely match the others at the crag than what we would have otherwise given it. A compromise, perhaps and certainly not representative of other areas.

    I note in the book, it has been given 9+....
    It is probably easier since this thing cleaned up a little.

    The nice thing about "voting" the grade here is that over time it will come to consensus. Please do 'vote' the grade as you feel is appropriate here.
    By Rob Davies UK
    From: Cheshire, UK
    Oct 14, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Worthwhile trad route with interesting route-finding, but an oddball grade. About 5.8 or VS 4c at Tremadog.
    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Jul 3, 2012
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Fun route! Takes gear well. I used a SR to 2" since that's what the guidebook calls out. No problem, but new leaders might want to take a 3" and 4" for the wider section.
    By Ryan Watts
    From: Bishop, CA
    Jul 27, 2013
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Be careful! There are now quite a few loose blocks on this one, including a ~50 lb. loose/detached flake right below the anchors that looks like a very inviting handhold but is actually precariously balanced on another loose rock right below it. I tried to figure out a way to remove it when I lead this route today, but there were too many people at the base to do it safely. I marked an "X" on it with chalk, but it rained right after we left, so I doubt that will stay. Someone should probably remove the flake when there are less people around -- it's beyond ready to go.
    By Joe Varela
    Jul 6, 2014

    The death block directly below the anchors is gone, but it could use some cleanup as there is some dirt and small stuff still in place. Still a lot of loose stuff above the tree.
    By Mauricio Herrera Cuadra
    From: Mendoza, Argentina
    Jun 5, 2015
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    There's a new loose block halfway up the route. It's to the right of an arete, at about 55', just before getting to the bulge described above (70'). It's very tempting to place gear behind it, but do not! I marked it with an "X".
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 15, 2015

    The large loose flakes have been removed. There is some dirt on the rock there now. It will take a few rains or a brush to clean it up, but you can climb around it just fine as well.

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