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Split Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chimney TR 
Dark Side of the Moon 
Johnson Arete 
Johnson Problem 
Split Decision TR 
Vaino Problem 

Johnson Arete 

Hueco: V4+ Font: 6B+

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Jeff Johnson
Page Views: 1,484
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Feb 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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first move on johnsons aret


Haven't done it so can't describe it - to anyone who has done it: please post a description in the comments and I'll move them here.


Facing north side of Split Rock; left edge of right wall of the chimney.


Pad and spotter

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By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
Apr 27, 2009
rating: V5 6C

The second right hand hold has broken and now is much more positive and needs some cleaning as of 4/27/2009. Won't give it a grade as I haven't topped it out. Pretty sure the grades here are wrong, too high.
By dan michels
From: boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2009

V6 sounds about right to me. the top out is kinda wierd and scary
By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
Nov 17, 2009
rating: V5 6C

Sent this today. Stand by my original thoughts that it is pretty soft for V6. Maybe V5. Yes the top is kind of funky and a bit scary, but that doesn't make the move any harder.

Chris -> DESCRIPTION: Sit start with left hand on the arete and right in the hueco. Use toe hooks, heel hooks, or campus strength to move the left up the arete and the right to the slopey side pull and pocket side pull higher. Get your feet up and work your way left to get both hands on the arete. Finish up while trying not to slip on the lichen. Good fun.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Dec 22, 2009

Thanks for the beta Rob.
By Rick Hill
From: la crescenta, ca
Feb 9, 2010
rating: V4+ 6B+

at this point with my climbing i wouldn't be able to hold on to a v6 this has to be v4...the top out just takes gusto or stupidity. (all holds are clean by now besides top out "damn lichen")
By Brad Alexander
From: Costa Mesa, CA
May 29, 2016