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Johnson Arete 

Hueco: V4+ Font: 6B+

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Jeff Johnson
Page Views: 1,598
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Feb 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Adrian finishing up Johnson Arete

Description 

Haven't done it so can't describe it - to anyone who has done it: please post a description in the comments and I'll move them here.

Location 

Facing north side of Split Rock; left edge of right wall of the chimney.

Protection 

Pad and spotter


Photos of Johnson Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: first move on johnsons aret
first move on johnsons aret

Comments on Johnson Arete Add Comment
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By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
Apr 27, 2009
rating: V5 6C

The second right hand hold has broken and now is much more positive and needs some cleaning as of 4/27/2009. Won't give it a grade as I haven't topped it out. Pretty sure the grades here are wrong, too high.
By dan michels
From: boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2009

V6 sounds about right to me. the top out is kinda wierd and scary
By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
Nov 17, 2009
rating: V5 6C

Sent this today. Stand by my original thoughts that it is pretty soft for V6. Maybe V5. Yes the top is kind of funky and a bit scary, but that doesn't make the move any harder.

Chris -> DESCRIPTION: Sit start with left hand on the arete and right in the hueco. Use toe hooks, heel hooks, or campus strength to move the left up the arete and the right to the slopey side pull and pocket side pull higher. Get your feet up and work your way left to get both hands on the arete. Finish up while trying not to slip on the lichen. Good fun.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Dec 22, 2009

Thanks for the beta Rob.
By Rick Hill
From: la crescenta, ca
Feb 9, 2010
rating: V4+ 6B+

at this point with my climbing i wouldn't be able to hold on to a v6 this has to be v4...the top out just takes gusto or stupidity. (all holds are clean by now besides top out "damn lichen")
By Brad Alexander
From: Costa Mesa, CA
May 29, 2016

By Mikey Wally
From: Los Angeles, CA
Apr 1, 2017
rating: V4 6B

a hold broke today, no foul play was involved. homie was standing on it and it just broke off.
By Ian Angeles
Apr 3, 2017

Hold broke on the arete, I was with Mikey. I believe it still goes but at a lower grade probably. The break caused an incut that can probably be used as a crimp now. I didn't get to climb it because the broken part was still dirty and super sandy.

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