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John's Problem 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 13'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 288
Submitted By: Christian Prellwitz on Jul 17, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the starting hold (marked in blue...

Description 

Start standing with hands matched on a good incut flake at head height. Find some feet and deadpoint/dyno to a decent edge/sidepull up and left. From here, figure out a way to get your feet established on the starting hold and then angle left on thin crimps and small feet to the finish.

The Kemple guidebook says to jump start, but I was able to do a normal stand start and it felt pretty much the same in difficulty. It also felt like the far more logical start.

The rock quality is somewhat questionable on this climb and many of the holds are hollow. This makes the finishing moves even more exciting! Still, this is a fun and worthwhile climb deserving of more traffic.

Location 

This climb is located to the right of 'Fido' and 'Cast Away' on the 45 To Life Boulder. It starts below a smooth grey slab.

Protection 

A few pads and perhaps a spotter.


Comments on John's Problem Add Comment
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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 17, 2014

This might be a little hard for the grade. It's hard for me to say since it's to my strengths as a climber, but it definitely requires a cool mix of power and technique.
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Nov 6, 2015

This looks really fun but that first hold seems like a ticking time bomb, didn't want to try it solo with a single pad.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 7, 2015

Yah, the climb in general is a bit fragile...
By Graham O.
Jul 26, 2016

I don't want to be a jerk, but I really disliked this climb. Awkward and painful movement on terrible rock. One of my least favorite climbs that I have done at P-way.

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