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Angles Away T 
Back for Seconds T 
Big Top project S 
Chucky Cheese T 
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Left End Corners T 
Mathematical Progressions T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Johnny Rotten 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
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Page Views: 462
Submitted By: Tom Cruise on Oct 5, 2011

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Description 

This is the best crack climb on the Second Buttress.

P1. Start in a crack below a 90 degree roof (very similar to Coffin Crack). Pull the roof via hands, and then continue up another 10 feet of hands. Mantel a small ledge, and then climb a weakness to a second roof. Move up and right (crux) of the roof, and belay at a rusty chain anchor.

P2. Either climb a finger crack (direct route) or move to the right and climb a hands/fists, cornery/chimney feature thing.

Location 

This is just to the right of Journey through Gwondonaland.

Protection 

Standard rack, cams to 2 inches.


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By TuFF GonG
From: gunnison Colorado
Sep 25, 2016

Did it today, good stuff! Climbs WAY better than it looks from the ground.

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