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Johnny Lang Crags

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Johnny Lang Crags Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 13, 2003
Forecast:
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54°
Monday

84° | 59°
Tuesday

83° | 55°
Wednesday

81° | 53°
Thursday

81° | 52°
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76° | 50°
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Description 

Of the many crags in the area located high on the mountain west of the White Cliffs of Dover only four have documented routes. The crags face west or northwest and remain shady during the morning. Most of the routes (both trad and bolted) were established by Mike Lechlinski and Mari Gingery and are, therefore, relatively difficult. White Trash (5.11+) ascends a stellar face, Evil Tree (5.12b/c) goes up an overhanging face to large roof, and Fissure King (5.10a) climbs an initially thin and vertical crack that widens and goes over two small roofs. More routes are described in, "Rock Climbs of Lost Horse Valley" by Alan Bartlett and will be included in Randy's new guidebook.


Getting There 

From Trash Can Rock take the trail that heads toward Baskerville Rock but veer right into a west - east wash a few hundred yards before Baskerville Rock. The wash narrows into a drainage and goes up a steep but short section over polished boulders. When the steep section ends the drainage veers left in a south - north direction. Follow the drainage toward the Johnny Lang Crags which are visible high on the mountain side slightly left of the wash. When the drainage ends in a small cul-de-sac climb the steep grade to the crags.


Climbing Season

For the Quail Springs Area area.

Weather station 9.0 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Johnny Lang Crags
Rock Climbing Photo: H.S.(On the right)

Hibiscus Shuffle 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  California : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Johnny Lang Crags
This is the right of two routes on the section of rock which is to the left of French Roast and Doggie Style. The climbing is fun, and the route is worth a visit. There are 2 bolts on the climb, and there are gear placements, mostly thin. The climb has a rap anchor on the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Johnny Lang Crags Add Comment
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By Murf
Nov 7, 2006
More information on getting there... When you "veer south" you actually continue for at least one mile to the rocks. Follow the wash for a ways, through at least one rock band. The only "cul-de-sac" we saw had a large dead tree in the center. From here you head up to sort of a headland. At this point, path of least resistance across and then up to the crag.
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Apr 26, 2010
It's a total of about 3 miles from Trashcan parking. As the crow flies it's about 1 mile SW of White cliffs of Dover.
There are actually 2 trails leading west from Trashcan, both visible on the Google satellite view.
The left trail goes more directly to Hound Rocks.

Johnny Lang crags is visible from main paved park road near the Negropolis.
By RTM
Apr 29, 2010
I GPS'd it (on foot) at 2.25 miles from the parking. My advice: after passing Hound Rocks and heading up the drainage, STAY IN THE WASH, as it bends sharply right then back left. Any attempts to beeline at the climbs will be met with stiff resistance! Parallel the hillside until you can see a clean shot to the crags high on the hillside.
By joed
Apr 29, 2010
Good beta. Definitely stay in the wash until you can put eyes on it. When reading the guide book, at first we thought we were to head up after passing the polished boulders and reaching the flat spot in the wash. Still a hike from there.
Well worth the approach. Quality routes need some traffic.

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