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Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 
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Freon T 
Johnny and the Mellonheads T 
Last Days T 
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Johnny and the Mellonheads 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R [details]
FA: Alan Watts
Season: spring and fall
Page Views: 154
Submitted By: kent benesch on Aug 18, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

All the pins have been replaced with bolts. A new anchor has been added instead of sharing anchors with Neutron Star. The new finish is longer, a bit run out, but the difficulties ease quickly. There are a few 5.12 sections on this route. One comes low on gear, the other comes at the first bolt.

Location 

The route is just left of Neutron Star.

Protection 

Small trad gear and quick draws. Gear and 3 bolts. Starts and finishes on gear.


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By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jun 24, 2017

This thing is incredible! It's easy to hang a rope on it by traversing in from the Morning Star anchor to try moves/suss gear. That being said, it protects pretty well for an R rated route and wouldn't be unreasonable to try and onsight with the right gear. The runouts come high enough up on the route that there's really good gear below the string of small stuff that will hold the 40 footer if the small stuff pulls. Ballnuts are crucial as are RPs. It's also worth bringing a 0.75.

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