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John Waynes Knee 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
Page Views: 459
Submitted By: MattL on Apr 7, 2012

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Ed starts up another hard one John Wayne's Knee (5...

Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>


This route lies on the right hand side of the main concentration of routes at Mad Cow wall. A somewhat neglected route, but just as classic as neighboring routes Rawhide and Chuckwagon IMO (and a tad bit harder). Rock quality is generally good, aside from some crumbly bits at the 3rd bolt rest.

Make your way past the first two bolts using thin holds and a good mono on easier terrain. Cruise to the big scoop at the third bolt, and rest as the name implies. Grab some jugs, and deadpoint/dyno to another good jug. Two options (and possibly more) exist for the crux at hand: 1. Grab a nasty (small and slopey) left handed gaston and thrutch for a good edge, or alternatively 2. skip the gaston and dyno for the good edge. Don't relax yet - 2 more bolts of pumpy sequential climbing stand between you and the chains.


Just right of Rawhide about 15 feet.


6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor - all fixed draws

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Rock Climbing Photo: On the send.
BETA PHOTO: On the send.

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By Keith Beckley 1
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Apr 29, 2015

Techy start to substantial moves to the hueco. Kinda rest on bigger holds and launch into the crux. A big move up and right, followed by a bigger move to a decent hold. More difficult movement above to clip the anchors. I really enjoy this route. Pretty hard, for me.

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