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John Wayne 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Anthony Chertudi 2009
Page Views: 247
Submitted By: Mike Stearns on Aug 17, 2015

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Description 

This takes the right leaning prow across the gully from Drinking Dry Clouds. An easy start quickly leads into the technical crux near the second bolt. Continue on long pulls between small holds through four more bolts to the chains. Most of the moves could prove to be redpoint cruxes. The technical, bouldery, and continuously low-percentage movement makes this a well earned route.

This faces SSE and gets PM shade.

The 2011 guide gives it 13b and the 2015 guide says 12d.

Location 

Around the corner and right of the Solace of Bolted Faces and left of Drinking Dry Clouds.

Protection 

6 draws + anchors (which had carabiners 08/15) and don't blow the second clip.


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