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John Henry's Hammer 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jayson Nissen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: Jayson Nissen on May 30, 2016

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This is a trad route that starts on the right side of the Scorpion's Revenge pillar, heads right up the crack system, then steps left and up the little corner. The crux is the sloper moves in the move left, though the top out is quite technical to get high enough to get to the good hold.
This route has been heavily cleaned. I worked hard to make sure that dirt won't seep down it in the rain but it will take a while to get all of the dust and grit off of the top. Expect dust and bring a brush.


Starts on the right side of the Scorpions Revenge pillar. Climb right onto the treed ledge. The line is quite obvious due to the scrubbing it has received. An anchor can be set up in crack at the top of the climb. Use the anchors on Scorpion's Revenge to get down. I don't recommend using them for TR'ing the route.


Single Rack to #2. A #2 and .5 for the anchor up top.

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By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Jun 26, 2016
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Nice work unearthing this worthwhile trad line at the Garden! Fairly sustained climbing that uses a few jams plus lots of sloper and edge climbing around the crack. Felt on the 10+ side of 5.10, plus beware of the ledge fall potential in the middle section. Bring a nut tool to dig out the nut placement protecting the final pull onto the ledge, I didn't and it made the topout a little heads up.

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