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John Galt Line 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Erik Wolfe
Page Views: 1,903
Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 1, 2006

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


A few pocket/edge moves lead to some challenging moves involving long reaches between good edges. Near the top, a tricky section pulling though a small bulge on pockets and edges leads to an easy finish. This is a newer route not in the Watt's guide.


Just right of Pack Animal Direct (trad dihedral).


Bolts. Rap Anchor.

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By corvegas
From: the depths of oregon
Feb 18, 2007

I belive the FA was done by Eric Wolfe
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Nov 5, 2008

You are correct. Nice to see some stars.

I originally rated this .10d cuz it wasn't any harder than Hemp Liberation - LOL!

By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Feb 17, 2010

I liked this route mainly because I felt that it doesn't climb like most of Smith... of course, perhaps I just didn't do it right.
Really good line.
By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Mar 8, 2012

Thankfully it was upgraded... basing ANY 5.10 grade off Hemp Liberation would be a HUGE sandbag!! That thing is ridiculously hard for a "5.10"
By another Chad
Apr 27, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Small update to the description above. This route is in the latest edition of the guidebook.

I enjoyed JGL up to the point that I had to clip the bolt above the roof. Either I didn't follow the first ascentionist's path or that bolt is in a funky location.

By Benjamin James
May 7, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

After talking to some locals it sounds like maybe a hold broke in the lower crux, making it easier. Not sure, and please correct me if I'm wrong. Either way, it felt comparable to Moons of Pluto or Headless Horseman, both 10d. Whatever you call it, it's a seriously fun route with far less grease than Magic Light, Zebra direct, etc. Don't bother climbing the 3 bolts that are above the initial anchor. Sketchy hangers, Worse rock, tedious moves, and an uninspiring anchor await.
By Phildlm
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Anchor has been replaced and is fairly new. It's 5.10a nubbins for the last three bolts. The crux IMO is actually getting to the roof. It's delicate and technical. Then getting past the roof is pumpy albeit not as technical, and clipping at the roof is from a good hold.

If we rate everything according to the easiest route in the park of that grade, then this would be a 10d. Which is ridiculous. Anywhere else this is an 11b. So we split the diff and go with an 11a. This is about the same difficulty as Magic Light (11a) and that grade seems to have stuck for decades.

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