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Reach the Beach 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Scott Unice, 1990s
Page Views: 1,155
Submitted By: Boissal on May 28, 2009

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The Green line is reach the beach The red line is ...


Listed by the Ruckmans & the new granite guide as John Doe 2 and described as "2 bolts that don't seem to have a home", this mixed route has some fun moves and a powerful crux section.

Scramble/climb up the easy blocky section between the starts of Total X and Fortress to a ledge below the large alcove. Lieback your way into the alcove before clipping a bolt and committing to the powerful crux, a long balancy reach to a decent edge. A few easier moves bring you to the second bolt and another cruxy section of crystal pinching.

Edit: name & FA info finally clarified!


Located on the Watchtower in between Total X and Fortress, easily identified by a big alcove about 1/3 of the way up the route.


2 bolts that look a bit battered. A #2 and maybe #3 for the main (hollow) undercling, some micros or small nuts for the upper flake.
Ancient rusty bolts/chains on top, better to rap off.

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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 28, 2009

This route deserves more traffic, it's fun and burly. The gear looks solid but it might be PGish on the upper section where things get a bit thin.
I thought the crux was a bouldery move, hard 10 or maybe easy 11.

Edit: after getting back on it I'd say it's more like mid 11, sustained climbing with hard-to-place and questionable gear.
By Alec LaLonde
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

What differentiates this route is the topout -- the direct finish is much more difficult than Fortress.

As for the gear, my partner today whipped on a red C3 behind the flake between the two bolts. He took off a chunk of rock too with another cam which freed up another small placement!
By T Roper
Oct 11, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

almost crapped myself on this route when I got the small cam stuck in a shitty position near the top... fun route for sure
By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

super fun movement on pretty good holds. Crux was in-between the bolts. Didn't bring the right gear so ended up running it out between bolts. Could have been a ground fall I suppose or at least pretty close. Definitely R if you do it that way. I nearly shitted myself for sure. Great route.
By almostrad
From: Lake Tahoe
Jul 16, 2015

Fun route. I think it's a bit soft at 11b. ripped a shitty placement in between the bolts at the upper "roof" and still had plenty of room before hitting the ground was a concern. Easily could be well protected IMO.
good climbing for sure.
By Miguel D
From: SLC
May 12, 2017

There is a John Doe and a John Doe 2, correct? The "2" would make it seem obvious, but this description seems to match what the Granite Guide identifies as John Doe (10+). Maybe I'm just off and John Doe hasn't been added here
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 22, 2017

Definitely John Doe 2 in the book, at least the old Ruckman's one, not sure about the granite guide. There is a John Doe 3 up canyon, can't remember if there is even a #1...
By Scott Unice
Jun 5, 2017

I put this route up in 1990s The bolts do have a home the route was called Reach the Beach. Basically it heads over the small roof just to the left of Fortress proper. The roof is protected via a cam slung long. The next bolt is used then climb directly up toward the belay of Fortress. Reach the top by passing a bolt and crack that takes good gear. I noticed in the new guide is was not correct I hope this clears the water some. This should not be rated R as gear is there and the bolts I placed seemed at the time more than adequate I think the route descriptions in the latest books may have made this seem R. Its almost a straight shot up from the first bolt past the roof with a slight jog left to reach the belay of Fortress.
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
Jun 28, 2017
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

The bolts on this thing are definitely suspect. A nut seemed to be pretty good for in between the bolts.
By jawshoeuh
From: Sandy, UTAH
Aug 22, 2017

It felt sustained to go straight up from the flake and clip the bolt for fortress. Reach the Fortress..?

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