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John Bryan State Park

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Left TR 
Black Right TR 
Blue TR 
Blue Left TR 
Blue Right TR 
Bubble Butt 
Green TR 
Green Left TR 
Green Right TR 
Hug Me Once Shame on You, Hug Me Twice Shame on Me 
Mavericks Boulder, Gleaming the Tube V3+ 
Mavericks Boulder, Pulling Tubes V6 
Mavericks Boulder, Ripping waves 
Orange Left TR 
Orange Right TR 
Pink TR 
Pink Left TR 
Pink Middle  TR 
Pride Rock Boulder, Swamp Ass  
Red TR 
Red Left TR 
Red Middle TR 
Yellow TR 
Yellow Left TR 
Yellow Middle TR 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

MoMBA Counter-Clockwise Loop
A great ride hitting all of MoMBA - an easy start, a great ride, and a fast finish. Near Wright-Patterson AFB, Ohio
Hawk's Lair
Lots of exposed rock - cobbles, bedrock, and large limestone chunks - enjoy! Near Wright-Patterson AFB, Ohio
The name says it all - lots of creek crossings and plenty of fun. Near Wright-Patterson AFB, Ohio
Great Scott
The longest loop at John Bryan State Park. Near Yellow Springs, Ohio
John Bryan State Park
John Bryan State Park has 12 miles of mountain bike trails that are open to all trail users. - MVMBA Near Yellow Springs, Ohio
From MP's sister site:

John Bryan State Park Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.79062, -83.85533 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Bruestle on Jul 23, 2008

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Six designated climbing sites and one rappelling site are maintained in the park. 30-60 foot limestone cliffs along the Little Miami River gorge. Only toproping allowed. Huge painted eyebolts at the top of all routes denote the different sites. From west to east the sites are Red, Blue, Green, Pink, Black, Orange, and Yellow. Routes range from 5.3-5.12. No lead climbing or bouldering allowed. Each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern aspect. Pay camping in park.

Getting There 

Located near Yellow Springs and Clifton off I-70. Near Springfield go south on 72 and follow signs to John Bryan State Park. Once in the park, use the trailhead in the Wingo Picnic area to access the climbs along the North Rim Trail.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 8.7 miles from here

25 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in John Bryan State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for John Bryan State Park:
Black Right   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     TR, 30'   
Pink Middle    5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     TR, 25'   
Green   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 25'   
Pink   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 22'   
Red   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 20'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in John Bryan State Park

Featured Route For John Bryan State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: South face

Mavericks Boulder, Pulling Tubes V6 V6 7A PG13  Ohio : John Bryan State Park
On the south side of this boulder(facing towards Little Miami River) the rock appears to have a natural rip curl hence the name "Mavericks Boulder". Pulling tubes starts on the right side of the south face with both hands matched on the same side-pull, and works left through small pockets and then climbs straight up the bulge on far left of boulder to good holds and tops out. Good feet but small pockets on the face make for a fun traverse using only pockets to nice holds for the top out.Link t...[more]   Browse More Classics in Ohio

Photos of John Bryan State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Park Map
Rock Climbing Photo: Blue Route at John Bryan State Park
Blue Route at John Bryan State Park

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