John Bryan State Park Rock Climbing
Holly cranks Ohio
Six designated climbing sites and one rappelling site are maintained in the park. 30-60 foot limestone cliffs along the Little Miami River gorge. Only toproping allowed. Huge painted eyebolts at the top of all routes denote the different sites. From west to east the sites are Red, Blue, Green, Pink, Black, Orange, and Yellow. Routes range from 5.3-5.12. No lead climbing or bouldering allowed. Each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern aspect. Pay camping in park.
Located near Yellow Springs and Clifton off I-70. Near Springfield go south on 72 and follow signs to John Bryan State Park. Once in the park, use the trailhead in the Wingo Picnic area to access the climbs along the North Rim Trail.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 8.7 miles from here
25 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in John Bryan State Park
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in John Bryan State Park
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for John Bryan State Park:
Green 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR, 25'
Pink 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR, 1 pitch, 22'
Red 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR, 1 pitch, 20'
Featured Route For John Bryan State Park
Green 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Ohio
: John Bryan State Park
This one can be climbed a few different ways, and crack start was my favorite. If you follow the crack and keep going to the right, it will be a little easier to complete with large foot holds. If you stay left it is a little more challenging but it ends with some good shelves...[more] Browse More Classics in Ohio
Blue Route at John Bryan State Park