John Bryan State Park Rock Climbing
Holly cranks Ohio
Six designated climbing sites and one rappelling site are maintained in the park. 30-60 foot limestone cliffs along the Little Miami River gorge. Only toproping allowed. Huge painted eyebolts at the top of all routes denote the different sites. From west to east the sites are Red, Blue, Green, Pink, Black, Orange, and Yellow. Routes range from 5.3-5.12. No lead climbing or bouldering allowed. Each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern aspect. Pay camping in park.
Located near Yellow Springs and Clifton off I-70. Near Springfield go south on 72 and follow signs to John Bryan State Park. Once in the park, use the trailhead in the Wingo Picnic area to access the climbs along the North Rim Trail.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 8.7 miles from here
25 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in John Bryan State Park
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in John Bryan State Park
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for John Bryan State Park:
Green 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR, 25'
Pink 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR, 1 pitch, 22'
Red 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR, 1 pitch, 20'
Featured Route For John Bryan State Park
Mavericks Boulder, Pulling Tubes V6 V6 7A
: John Bryan State Park
On the south side of this boulder(facing towards Little Miami River) the rock appears to have a natural rip curl hence the name "Mavericks Boulder". Pulling tubes starts on the right side of the south face with both hands matched on the same side-pull, and works left through small pockets and then climbs straight up the bulge on far left of boulder to good holds and tops out. Good feet but small pockets on the face make for a fun traverse using only pockets to nice holds for the top out.Link t...[more] Browse More Classics in Ohio
Blue Route at John Bryan State Park