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11.5 - The Sugar Cookie
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Donkey Way, The S 
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Joe's Garage T 

Joe's Garage 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ed Barry, Rick Cashner (1979)
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: tallmark515 on Apr 2, 2017

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Description 

The first section of this route is 3 bolts (11b) and moves up and left into a large flake and to a large pedestal (stance). This is actually a new variation to Joe's Garage, but adds 40 feet of high quality face climbing. The alternative is a 3rd class scramble around the corner to the left.

From the pedestal above the flake, place high gear (nuts and blue alien size) and punch it up to good finger locks in a 50 foot splitter finger crack (mostly .4 and .5 Camalot).

A second pitch (5.9) continues the route through a small roof and up a hand crack. We didn't do the second pitch but it appears to be very long with an intermediate belay.

Location 

From the "Staging area" at the base of the Sugar Cookie, start at the leftmost bolted line (of the three bolted lines) on the wall or scramble up 3rd class to the left to access a pedestal at the start of an obvious finger crack.

Protection 

Pitch 1: Doubles purple, blue and yellow Metolius. Doubles .4 Camalot, .5 Camalot and one yellow (#2) Camalot (for inside the flake). Optional medium nuts (I used only yellow DMM offset).

Pitch 2: Assortment of larger gear.


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