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Joe's Bloody Finger Pocket 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: TF
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 368
Submitted By: Fertical Fertig on Dec 12, 2016

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Jamie Tolins throwing for the bloody finger pocket...

Description 

Starts behind the dead tree stump. Climbing above the first set of anchors (45 ft up) is still a bit loose but only like 5.7. Belayer should wear a helmet as this is a brand new route.

There once was a man named Joe,
To a faraway pocket he'd throw,
But when his hand hit the hold,
His skin did a fold,
And left a bloody flapper for Joe.

Now a man named Johnny can't lead,
And a man named Joe can bleed,
But fear not their fate,
Climb with a clean slate,
For an onsight to this route you need.

Protection 

9 bolts to first mussy hook anchors. An additional 5 bolts to the top set of mussy hook anchors. (Extension option. Not a 2-pitch climb.)


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By JTLA Tolins
From: Los Angeles, California
May 1, 2017

Good route. I'd recommend a toothbrush and pretapong your right index finger. I as well fell victim to the flapper.

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