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Funk Rock City
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Emphysema T 
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Glory Be  S 
Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 
Goodstone T 
Hardcore Jollies S 
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Infidel, The S 
Joe Camel T 
L'ile Au Ciel S 
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Manic Impression S 
Orange Juice S 
Prime Directive S 
Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 
Rite of Passage T 
Seppuku S 
Smokin' Joe S 
Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 
There Goes the Neighborhood S 
Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 
Veldhaus Route T 

Joe Camel 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: hugh loeffler, dave lutes 1993
Page Views: 828
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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The Start of Joe Camel


Start by stemming up the corner in to a section of moderate OW with stemming and laybacking and good rests... The crux is the last 10 feet or so where the crack gets thin and steeper... Here you will be jamming in a thin hands crack and stemming hard...

There is an extension at 5.11 that look burly hard and steep...


As you walk in to Funk Rock City you will find this dark corner in orange stone just after the first couple bolted lines you encounter...


Regular rack will do but if you want to get some use out of your #5 and or #6 cams they will work on the easy part... Fixed anchor at the roof...

Photos of Joe Camel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: In this picture im at the top of the easy stuff an...
In this picture im at the top of the easy stuff an...

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By Drake Pregnall
From: Morehead, KY
Jun 11, 2015

The anchor at the top is an oddball. There is a passively chocked tricam at the top of the crack that serves as an artificial chockstone over which some cord is slung around to create a masterpoint with two opposed oval biners. I added another tricam actively placed with another carabiner just to get a little more redundancy up there.
By Michael Dom
May 10, 2016

The anchor is no longer there. If you do this route plan on bringing up material to build an anchor.. If you don't want to build an anchor, continue on to the top over the bulge by climbing the right crack.
By Eli Staggs
From: Olympia, WA
Jun 27, 2016

Left a nut up at the anchor point and used the tri-cam that is rotting away. I definitely recommend not using it . . . but the nut is solid. You will need another piece to equalize.

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