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2. Baldy
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ballroom T,TR 
Chute TR 
Devil's Elbow TR 
Gunsight TR 
High Nowhere TR 
High Rustler TR 
Jitterbug TR 
Mambo T,TR 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views: 49
Submitted By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Baldy sector + Albion pillar: A - High Rustler B -...


Interesting moves ... too bad it's not longer.

Start on a short slab, then steeper up the crack system.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).


Below the crack system about six feet left from the right edge of the Baldy upper face -- which is also the arete at the left edge of the Albion slab (the "Extrovert Upper" route).


Top-Roping: Tree for top anchor can be reached by going to the top of the Tower Wall, then walking east along the top of the cliffs, then down below the top about ten feet, then another twenty or thirty feet east.
This top anchor could (with some adjustments) also be used to protect some of the routes on the Albion upper slab.

Protection for trad leading is unknown.

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