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Jitterbug Boy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Apr 16, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Jitterbug Boy- 12a

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

It's not beautiful, but don't let that keep you from tying this puzzling feature climb. What it lacks in aesthetics, it makes up for in fun.

Follow polished jugs that end just below the roof at the second draw. Make an easy move over the roof to a generous rail, shuffle right, and reach for the next rail, which has a few sweet spots if you look around.

This is where the business starts. Fight your feet over the roof and use the mini-arete feature to get over the rail and up to a resting jug on the left.

Work the corner with your feet, angle right past a few decent holds and gain an almost no-hands rest by standing on on a large shelf.

While the feet are huge, the hands get small. Traverse right using small crimps, and slopey edges until you can reach the horizontal break below the next roof. A few shouldery moves in a small dihedral get you to the anchors.

Cleaning the route is much easier than it appears.

This is a good option if you are looking for something that will challenge more than your finger strength.

Location 

Just right of Reaching for Razors.

Protection 

Bolts and two bolt anchor with carabiners. Look for the long wire draw at the lip of the Hell Cave.


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