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> Buttress Two (Bond Bu…
Jinx
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 5
votes
Routes in Buttress Two (Bond Buttress)
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Dr. Goodhead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jaws T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jinx T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Long 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Octopussy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sundawg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed Wide Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Karl Kelley, Michelle Kelley & Charley Graham |
| Page Views: | 1,178 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Aug 13, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Jinx is a classic Moab rim route with lots of finger sizes and nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot.
The first pitch starts up Dr. Goodhead and then traverses right at an obvious horizontal weakness. Continue up a thin right facing corner with a bolt, that gradually opens up to fingers and then tight hands to a roof. Stopping at the anchor below the roof keeps the first pitch at 5.11 or avoid the hanging belay and traverse out left fighting around the lip of the roof (crux), then up easier terrain to another bolted anchor. (12-)
Pitch two climbs a steep off-fingers corner on perfect rock to some softer but easier rock and an easy traverse left to the belay. This anchor is shared with the second pitch of Quantum of Solace. (11-)
Pitch three starts with steep thin hands in a corner to an anchor out left. Pass the anchor and continue left through some hard underclings to a big move that gets you into a corner with a bolt. Blindly move out of the corner and around the arête to your left to get to the belay. (11+/12-)
Pitch four ascends a short but thin shallow corner to a ledge and then continues up the easy lower angle corner to the top. (11, gear anchor)
Descent: Walk climbers right and scramble down the right side of a large square block to find the first anchor. Rap the route from here with two 70m ropes, or swing right and set up a TR on Octopussy.
The first pitch starts up Dr. Goodhead and then traverses right at an obvious horizontal weakness. Continue up a thin right facing corner with a bolt, that gradually opens up to fingers and then tight hands to a roof. Stopping at the anchor below the roof keeps the first pitch at 5.11 or avoid the hanging belay and traverse out left fighting around the lip of the roof (crux), then up easier terrain to another bolted anchor. (12-)
Pitch two climbs a steep off-fingers corner on perfect rock to some softer but easier rock and an easy traverse left to the belay. This anchor is shared with the second pitch of Quantum of Solace. (11-)
Pitch three starts with steep thin hands in a corner to an anchor out left. Pass the anchor and continue left through some hard underclings to a big move that gets you into a corner with a bolt. Blindly move out of the corner and around the arête to your left to get to the belay. (11+/12-)
Pitch four ascends a short but thin shallow corner to a ledge and then continues up the easy lower angle corner to the top. (11, gear anchor)
Descent: Walk climbers right and scramble down the right side of a large square block to find the first anchor. Rap the route from here with two 70m ropes, or swing right and set up a TR on Octopussy.
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