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Buttress Two (Bond Buttress)
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Jinx 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Karl Kelley, Michelle Kelley & Charley Graham
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Aug 13, 2015

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Nik Mirhashemi on the crux of pitch 3.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Jinx is a classic Moab rim route with lots of finger sizes and nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot.

The first pitch starts up Dr. Goodhead and then traverses right at an obvious horizontal weakness. Continue up a thin right facing corner with a bolt, that gradually opens up to fingers and then tight hands to a roof. Stopping at the anchor below the roof keeps the first pitch at 5.11 or avoid the hanging belay and traverse out left fighting around the lip of the roof (crux), then up easier terrain to another bolted anchor. (12-)

Pitch two climbs a steep off-fingers corner on perfect rock to some softer but easier rock and an easy traverse left to the belay. This anchor is shared with the second pitch of Quantum of Solace. (11-)

Pitch three starts with steep thin hands in a corner to an anchor out left. Pass the anchor and continue left through some hard underclings to a big move that gets you into a corner with a bolt. Blindly move out of the corner and around the arête to your left to get to the belay. (11+/12-)

Pitch four ascends a short but thin shallow corner to a ledge and then continues up the easy lower angle corner to the top. (11, gear anchor)

Descent: Walk climbers right and scramble down the right side of a large square block to find the first anchor. Rap the route from here with two 70m ropes, or swing right and set up a TR on Octopussy.

Location 

Just right of the cliff center. Same start as Dr. Goodhead and Quantum of Solace.

Protection 

00 C3 to #3 Camalots. Bring extra finger and off finger sizes.


Photos of Jinx Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Charley Graham follows pitch 3 on the FA of Jinx
Charley Graham follows pitch 3 on the FA of Jinx

Comments on Jinx Add Comment
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By IprojYOURwarmups
Oct 22, 2015

Pitch three is sketch. That whole flake that you lieback is detached and you stuff a bunch of cams behind it.

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