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Jim's Gem 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: McCarthy and Stan Gross (FA, 1954) Art Gran (FFA, 1960s)
Page Views: 1,302
Submitted By: John Peterson on Apr 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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P2 with upper traverse


The first pitch wanders up the face left of Modern Times. This pitch is seldom climbed; The Last Will Be First is a good alternative path to the GT ledge.

The second pitch is one of the "Waiting for High Exposure" alternatives. It is quite good, with an excellent crux. Climb into a major corner below the Jim's Gem tree (large pine lower than the others, about 100' left of High Exposure). The crux is moving right under the small roofs.


100' left of High Exposure.

A bolted rappel line left of Jim's Gem leads to the ground in 3 60-m rappels.


Standard gunks rack

Photos of Jim's Gem Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Jim's Gem.
BETA PHOTO: The start of Jim's Gem.

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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Mar 21, 2011

The latest guide lists two options for climbing the second pitch, and the first one seemed quite a bit harder than 5.8.
By Rob Albert
Apr 9, 2012

If you do the low traverse, and clip the nasty old pin, DO NOT FALL. There is a nasty potential to hurt yourself on the ledge below. The pin is questionable if it will hold. Fun pitch otherwise.
By SethG
Jun 30, 2012

The low traverse is the first one listed in Dick's guide. So I think that I did the same variation as both Dana & Rob, and I disagree with Dana a bit--I thought it was fairly graded at 5.8, but it's a pumpy move across and then up to the roofs.

I do agree with Rob about the pro. That pin does not inspire confidence-- it is rusty and the eye seems a bit eaten through-- and there is no other pro for the crux. I won't be going back for low traverse unless the pin is replaced. I might go back to try the high road, continuing up the corner and doing delicate moves across.
By Gunkiemike
Oct 27, 2015

P1 is at least as enjoyable as Modern Times. Maybe a bit dirty up high (exit to the GTL at the short, left-facing corner) but definitely a good ride.
Oct 28, 2015

Mike, feel free to provide a better description for P1 than what's here, if you feel it's worthwhile!
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jul 18, 2016

Did the upper traverse from under the roof on P2. Pro is pretty good, though would be a bit of a swing if you fell on the one move, but not terrible. Very fun short route with some nice exposure.

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