Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
End Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be All, End All T 
Cap'm Pissgums T 
Days of Future Passed T 
Endgame T 
Great Gig in the Sky T 
Jimmywacky T,S 
Magnus Veritas T,S 
Poetry in Motion T 
Son of Gums T 
Uncarved Block T 
Unknown (L of Endgame) S 
Welcome to the Machine T,S 

Jimmywacky 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: EFR, John Hayes, Virgil Davis
Page Views: 1,872
Submitted By: Geir on Nov 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
David Hein following John up the crux second pitch...

Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An excellent climb on beautiful, exposed rock. For those climbing at this grade, this climb should not be missed!

Pitch 1) Start in the same ramp/trough as Days of Future Passed. Continue up this feature until a bolt appears on your left. Make a hard move left, and continue up past two more bolts and tricky (but good) gear placements to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2) Hard face climbing past four bolts. The climbing eases to 5.9-5.10 after this point, and the bolts become spaced further. Continue along the bolts to the anchor at the end of pitch 3 of Endgame.

A topo for this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link:

toofasttopos.com/free/

While the second pitch of this climb is very difficult, the first pitch alone is excellent. You can rappel from the end of either pitch with two 60 meter ropes.

Location 

End Pinnacle, South Face.

Protection 

Bolts, stoppers, and a single set of cams to #4.


Photos of Jimmywacky Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy on the first pitch during a fall sunset
Andy on the first pitch during a fall sunset

Comments on Jimmywacky Add Comment
Show which comments
By Minty Alpinist
Dec 3, 2008

Geir - I think your topo is missing a route between Jimmywacky and Days...
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 3, 2008

yes, that's correct. great gig in the sky is missing. i haven't climbed great gig yet. once i do, though, i'll be glad to add it to the topo (assuming i survive.)

:)
geir
By Minty Alpinist
Jan 30, 2009

Horse poo to you, RickD. That time you spent in Pensyltuckey must have really messed with your mind. Have you ever moved back to the desert?

We did not bail. You belayed me when I lead that spooky runout pitch. You were all over the bolt-minimizing fancy-pants belays where the first piece on the route was part of the belay. (Are two bolts still considered belay anchors if they're 15 vertical feet apart?) We were so messed up after that pitch we couldn't do the third. Late in the day and all that bs. That second pitch had maybe one bolt and three chicken necks to sling (could have used grey tape to hold the slings on the rock). The good news is that it's only vertical...

Maybe there's another RickD in the climbing world?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 13, 2012

John Hayes was on the FA of the first pitch and I think Virgil Davis was with me on the second pitch. Pretty cool how exposed this climb is.
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 14, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Pitch one is definitely the money pitch; `130' of varied, thought-provoking, and challenging climbing on great rock. Pitch two isn't bad, but lacks the rock quality and continuity of the first. The initial ~40' of the second pitch contains continuously hard, thin climbing, after which there's ~130' of easy climbing to the anchors. We rapped from the top of the second with two 50m ropes and barely got back to the anchors on pitch one (note: the rap line falls about 20' left of the anchors, so you'll have to swing over to them. Knot the ends of your rope!). Definitely a climb worth doing!