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West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock TR 
Atom Smasher S 
Baby Sitter T 
Break on Through T 
Break On Through to Chianti T 
Chianti T 
Clear-a-Sill T 
Cruisin' for Burgers T 
Ein Kluck T,TR 
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 
Gibbet, The T 
Incarnation S 
Jimmy G T 
Long John Wall T 
Next to Nearly T 
Rictus T 
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 
Shock Of the New T,TR 
Strawberry Shortcut T 
Sunshine Wall T,TR 
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 
Unlead, The T,TR 
Unsaid, The T 
Uranus T 
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 
Washington Irving T 
White Rabbit T 

Jimmy G 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Erickson, Dave Rickson, Jimmy G.
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on May 10, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Jimmy G.

2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is somewhat off the beaten-path but is worth seeking out. The route starts on a good ledge with a large pine tree at the start. Make some face moves behind the tree to reach a left-leaning diagonal crack; climb that crack until it cuts right, and then head up that to a good ledge. There's a small tree about ten feet back where an anchor can be made.

(The route name and first ascent party were obtained from Steve Levin's excellent guidebook to the canyon.)

Location 

An easy way to get to the route is to climb both pitches of Washington Irving. From the cable anchor atop the second pitch, do an easy traverse over to the tree. Another way is to climb both pitches of Chianti or Break on Through, go up and over a ridge, and then scramble down to the tree.

We descended by downclimbing an easy, wide crack from the belay to a large tree with slings. Rappel from that tree down slabs to a good ledge about 20 feet below the start of the route. Scramble back to the top of Washington Irving, and do two rappels to the ground. One might also be able to scramble up slabs from the belay spot, traverse over to the left, and downclimb back to the starting ledge.

Protection 

A standard Eldo rack. The protection is much better than it looks from the base of the route. An anchor can be made at a small tree and backed up with a #4 Camalot and a large stopper (other combinations of gear would probably work as well).


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