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Jill's Thrill 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA '85 McGown, Opdycke, Jill Green
Page Views: 2,572
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Dec 11, 2010  with updates from Topher Dabrowski

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Pitch two.

Beacon Rock is open from July 15, 2016 through February 1st, 2017. See note for more details. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Jill's Thrill starts directly behind the bolted anchors on the left side of Snag Ledge. A number of routes access the ledge but the more popular starts to Jill's would be either Little Wing or the first pitch of the Southeast Corner.

P1: Start up Little Wing or the Southeast Corner and climb up to the first belay on Snag Ledge.

P2: Climb the obtuse corner/crack system directly behind the belay to a ledge about 65' feet up. (If you're unsure which crack it is, there are no continuous cracks to the right of it and there are two fixed pitons on this section.) Skip the anchors atop the ledge and continue climbing the low angle cracks to the right of the anchors to a bulge (crux). Ascend the bulge via the flaring crack to bolted belay anchors on the next ledge.

P3: The final short pitch climbs the crack to the right of the anchors. Jam the finger crack and squeeze into the flaring pod until it eases as you find features on the face above. A short step leads to another bolted anchor belay.

Either walk left around the corner and onto Grassy Ledges and continue to the top via another line or rappel the route.

This route is equipped with Metolius rap hangers but you will also find webbing and rap rings placed through these rappel hangers. The route can be rappelled with a single 60m rope. It requires 4 rappels to reach the ground.

Location 

From the top of the first pitch of SE Corner route, go straight up.

Protection 

Gear to 2"


Photos of Jill's Thrill Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamming up pitch one.
Jamming up pitch one.

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By adam winslow
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 26, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The flow of this route is GREATLY improved if the first rappel station from snag ledge is bypassed and the first 180' of this route is climbed as one pitch. After that their is still a second pitch (3rd pitch if you stop and belay at the rappel station) that ends at the grassy ledges.
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
Oct 23, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climb the whole thing as one pitch with a 70m.
By Byron Marohn
From: Portland, OR
Aug 9, 2016

Pretty cool route. We thought we were clever, and tried to do fewer rappels with a 70m - dumb idea. You can't skip any rappel station without some down-climbing. While not the sketchiest thing ever (with good knots in the ends...), it's definitely not worth it. Make the four simple raps and be safe (or use two ropes).

When next I climb this, it'll definitely be in one pitch with my 70m (starting at Snag Ledge, so two pitches overall from the ground).