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Jigsaw Puzzle 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Bradley White July 2012 FFA Mathew Wallace Aug. 2012 and the FFA finish Timmijal
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 663
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Lee pulling into the crux.


Climb named after the Rolling Stones album Beggar's Banquet, song. The climb is on clean enough doable rock, in a not so clean rock area. Climbing traffic would improve the surface. It has not been brushed and is in its natural condition.
Start at the cracked rock, shallow overhang bulge that is (5.7) stopper protected. Go direct to pin and move left to a large flake horn to hero loop. Clip bolt above the flake. Move right and up to get to another bolt (5.8) and higher right pin at stance. Go past pin and move left to giant protruding rock (the blade) that was the aided crux. This crux required a shallow pin placement after a bolt (5.7) drilling placement. The pin popped out on the first try. Second try shallow tied off pin held. Placed last bolt and pin above the crux for rappel. Checked out moves and probably (5.? )free. Did not have the stamina to finish it to a higher stance. I was climbing with an immediately injured wrist. Fell hiking to climb. I intended to go left after stance at base of ramp to clean inclining corner crack facing right (I was seeing things). Directly up Looked very nice also (very dirty above anchors). Intended to go higher and mantle onto the tree ledge. Here there 20ft high and wide quartz wall. Probably a free way up it, it being quartz.
The blade of rock definitely goes free with a lot of sequential arm power or otherwise our inability too lift our legs into it. Frustrating and I got through some of it before not getting over the crux (C0). The climb goes PG13 after that, with easier as you get higher moves to do for the rappel anchors. Moss and lichen above here or entering the 'Lichen Dike' is doable. The route stops 10-12ft above last bolt at the stance.
Temporary rappel anchors and the climb to this station was done with Ed Hasse. Ed seconding free climbed up the face left of crux area and up to bolt above. Big run out to be on the lead and its in the 5.8 zone.


Between 12 Pack and Lichen Dike.


Four bolts, three pins, one long sling, one medium stopper. Two bolt rappel anchor with temporary snap links.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 23, 2016
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Aug 7, 2012

I climbed this free to the pin and bolt anchor on Friday 8/3/2012.

I feel it goes at 5.8 to the current anchor. If the route gets extended it will become harder pulling over the overlap by the current anchor. The route is dirty right now now and gets one star. I didnt not find any PG13 climbing and it deserves 1 star.

Should I post a new route description for the free route?
By bradley white
From: Bend
Aug 7, 2012

I'll change it to 5.8 and see how many votes it gets to agree on its grade. Did you go a little past the rappel clip to stem above the blade? That should be a nine like foot smear and maybe not.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 7, 2012

Bradley.. I gotta say my man.. you are whacked !
By bradley white
From: Bend
Aug 8, 2012

I third that and etc. Another log added to the fire of comments not about routes though. Whacked is good. I like to get whacked often. Hassig's Memorial is whacked and a awesome block in the ceiling is on it.
I usually get whacked before I climb at Utopia. Going there today, soon whacked in deed. Get whacked. I almost got whacked in the eye. Climbed a new way up in Utopia late in the day. Another wacky adventure.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 8, 2012

like i have always said bradley-- f#*k'm
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Aug 12, 2012

Bradley I clipped from and undercling on the large rock blade and reached up to the fixed anchor. I stopped climbing there because it is a logical place for the route to stop and it is where people will stop because of where the anchors are placed.
By Timmijal
Nov 27, 2012

I climbed this the other day with a friend of mine and i noticed that the anchors were set back further then when I had originally climbed it with Matt Wallace. I was just wondering why this was done? I will say having to pull the weird horn bulge was fun and interesting, but were there any other reasons for moving them; seems like an odd thing to do?
By bradley white
From: Bend
Dec 8, 2012

The original anchors were for retreat. The anchors now are where I planned too put them. Getting through the horn was why I went up there. You did the FFA unless you hung around at the horn. Is it 5.8+?
By Timmijal
Dec 18, 2012

I would say the bulge was a 5.9 or 5.9+ move. Not too bad considering it is kind of awkward.
By bradley white
From: Bend
Jun 15, 2013

Thanks Timmijal and I made it 9+ so that the consensus is 5.9. I don't want to sand bag anyone doing this route.
By Torie Kidd
From: NH
Mar 23, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Interesting climb over a very striking feature. Side note if you're short. There's a bolt on top of the feature that's hard to see and strenuous to clip (and a little scary to make. That's why I added the pg-13 to my opinion).

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