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YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rich Strang & Mike Phalan
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Rich Strang on Jun 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Mike rappeling off JetStream after the First Ascen...


Start at a flake in the groove left of the wide crack moving left to the blunt arete at the 2nd bolt. Continue up the arete climbing left of the bolts then back right after the 4th bolt. Finish the pitch just right of the bulge and over the final notch/roof to the anchors


5 feet left of a wide crack which is between "Drunk Rednecks" and Clip Art


7 bolts plus lowering chains

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By Rich Strang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jun 15, 2012

The rock and movement on this route is real nice. It would get 3 stars if escape onto "Rednecks" wasn't so easy. Definitely worth doing though! I think its a good warm-up route for some of the longer routes near-by - It feels more like Diablo 5.10+ to me but I may know the moves too well.
By Dave Wachter
Oct 1, 2014

Seemed like the obvious climbing wandered wide of the bolt line, would be a sketchy on-sight for an 11- climber. Helmet advised for climber and belayer - we pulled off a big rock.

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