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Jet Wind 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,102
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Dec 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO: Good shot showing the bolt line.


"This area classic is the second-best route in the crag next to Jet Stream. At the first bolt, climb up and right. Follow a series of closely spaced bolts on secure holds with airy exposure. The route's middle section is steep and sustained. Continue to the rock's top and top-chains. This well-protected route makes an excellent lead climb and is highly recommended." - Falcon Guide's 'Rock Climbing Oregon' 2006


Main Wall, center. Right of Nook and Cranny and left (across the narrow gully) of Black Market Organ Donor.


9 bolts

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By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It is one of the best 5.8 in the state, solid and fun rock.

Protection is 9 or 10 bolts plus the anchor. Near the top there is a short traverse to the left with a bolt at the beginning of the traverse and a bolt at the end. The ending bolt seems to be at or slightly lower then the beginning bolt and is unnecessary. However, if you plan to clip it you should bring a double length quickdraw (or a regular runner). If you don’t clip it there are only 9 bolts en route.

Extra bonus, if it is near lunchtime bring your lunch and eat it at the top of the climb, a nice little spot with beautiful views, though it has a somewhat a tricky rappel to get down.
By Vince Schreck
From: Portland, OR
Jun 29, 2015

Solid's a great lead at the grade. Even though it's solid 5.8, It's a really long route! Make sure you take some rests when you get a chance.

Moving around the bulge on the right side is a good idea. Up high, it seems like it's really thin at times, but there are always good hold when you step up. They are hard to see from below.

In my opinion, it's definitely better that Jet Stream.
By Byron Marohn
From: Portland, OR
May 28, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you happen to have trad gear you can follow the somewhat more direct route to the first bolt placing a few medium cams in obvious placements (0.5-2"?) - you can see the slots from the ground. Otherwise you'll have to use the first bolt of Jet Stream, which works too. No idea why there's a mystery bolt 2' left of the last bolt on the route, don't clip it.

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