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Jet Stream 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Season: Spring through Fall - Road closed to snow til early June
Page Views: 1,990
Submitted By: ARob on Jun 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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This route is described as the best route at Bulo Point and I am not one to argue. This route ascends the left side of the central spine at the main area. If there is one word to describe this long, airy, route it is "relentless." The first clip is a good distance off the ground but it's a pretty simple scramble to get to it. From there, step out onto the detached flake (awkward) and start heading up. There is rarely a good place to take a brake and the exposure is heady. The route takes you over three or four bulges that each act like their own crux, with an odd, but not the hardest one, coming at the top.


Head to the bottom of the crag, the trail forks right and down hill up top. Follow this around and pass a couple spires and come to the "Main Area" with the fortified belay areas. Jet Stream and Wind are on the tall central pillar with the orange lichen.


9 Bolts plus top anchors. A guy who was out there said you could hang a rope from the top by rock hopping up top but that looked totally crazy. We warmed up on the enjoyable 5.8 "Jet Wind" which shares the first bolt and heads right and then switched the rope over to Jet Stream's anchor.

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By Bruce Eng
Jul 28, 2008

Actually its possible to set up a top rope on Jet Stream without too much trouble. From the upper trail, walk out onto the higher rock to the left (when looking out) of the top of Jet Stream and then find the anchor bolts that are for some of the climbs that descend into the gully. From these bolts you can set up a rappel to safely get across the chasm and onto the rock where the Jet Stream anchor bolts are located. From here you can pull you rope and set up a rappel down to the bottom of Jet Stream. Now you have a top rope.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Sep 10, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Can someone explain how an 80 foot sport route can be a grade V?
By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A difficult 5.9+, but a very good climb. However I think Jet Wind is a much better climb.

Though different anchors it shares the same lunch spot as Jet Wind.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Sep 24, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is NOT 5.9. Rumor has it that it was downgraded from the original 5.10- grade by an unknown person. Following the bolts is a solid 5.10b IMO. If you deviate about 10' to the right hear the top roof, it would be about a 5.9. A hard 5.9 at that, as the first crux is a solid 5.10a.
By cconradd
From: Washougal, WA
Sep 28, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The anchors are looking sketchy as of 9/27/14. Both are spinners, but it does not appear that the bolts have backed off, I think they might have pulled a little? Both bolts are sort of bendy when weight is applied.

I'm not an expert on fixed pro by any means, but this anchor worried me. Maybe next time someone with more experience is out there they can take a look.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Sep 28, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I'm replacing a bunch of bolts soon at French's Dome and Broughtons Bluff, should have a few extra. I'll take a look at the anchors and see about replacing them.
By CamBrown
From: Clackamas
Jun 17, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Really fun sustained climbing for the grade (5.10a perhaps). Decent rest opportunities and great views from the top! Love the route!

Micah, The anchors were sketchy as of June 14th 2015. Hangers and bolts were rusty and moved/flexed when weighted. I traversed/climbed over to and rapped off of Jet Wind's anchors about 5-10 feet right of Jet Stream. IMO the anchors should be replaced as soon as possible. Thank you!
By Vince Schreck
From: Portland, OR
Jun 29, 2015

Climbed this route 6/28/2015. I don't think the anchor has been changed out, but it didn't alarm me.

I did pretty much what Bruce suggested to access these climbs from the top. I setup a rappel from the last set of anchors along the top. I equalized a couple of cams to redirect off the anchor. Without doing that, the rap direction is not quite the right angle.

As far as the route, yes, I agree with everyone that the route is sort of a sandbag at 5.9. If you follow the bolt line at the first bulge (left side of the arete) straight over the roof, it's incredibly thin and overhanging. I think it felt like hard 5.10 (c or d). I think the secret is to head left, clip the bolt, and then pull back around the arete to the right. It was a really hard boulder problem. Even not heading straight up over the bolt, it was still 5.10 a or b.

Then, at the end, it was very awkward. Since I feel better and more secure in cracks, I jammed the left-leaning crack, which had to be 5.10a.

I agree that it's a relentless climb. It's long, and it's rarely a cakewalk.
By Bill 1552
From: Portland, OR
Aug 29, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

8/23/15, anchors are a bit tired. Can easily traverse to Jet Wind's anchor which is bomber.

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