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Jet Fuel 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 2016 Chris Koppl, Mary Wuest
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 140
Submitted By: Twinboas on Nov 21, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Topo showing the base area and surrounding routes.

Description 

This is the approach to numerous upper pitches, it follows a left trending corner/ramp to a steep face which has several short glorious cracks to the left (no gear required). 12 bolts if you continue up the black water streak to the Zero Gravity anchors, 9 bolts if you stop at the Solar Wind anchors (to the right).

Above the first bolt the climbing is easiest if you stay left of the bolt line. When you reach a bulge, clip a bolt and make a move to a big right hand pinch/sidepull which you can use to establish yourself in the short crack just above you. After surpassing the crack the difficulty eases up until you reach either anchor.

Location 

This route follows the line of least resistance and begins in a slightly right facing corner surrounded by overhanging terrain.

Rappel the route with a single 70m rope or continue up one of the upper pitches where it is possible to either rappel or walk off (exposed third class).

Protection 

9 or 12 bolts (depending on which way you finish), chain anchors.


Photos of Jet Fuel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling past the bulge into the short twin cracks.
Pulling past the bulge into the short twin cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the start of the pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the start of the pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the anchors of Jet Fuel, where the ang...
Approaching the anchors of Jet Fuel, where the ang...

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