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Jesus Christ Built My Finger Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b WI4 M6-7

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b WI4 M6-7 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: winter
Page Views: 4,112
Submitted By: JOEY T on Feb 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Matt attempting the route on TR. Note his tool han...

Description 

This is a combination of descriptions by Joey T & L Paik.

Jesus Christ Built My Finger Crack lies on a narrow buttress with overhanging transition to ice curtain. Start uphill from Verminator and downstream from Dream Team. It is a pleasure and a pump.

Details: shred the Krispy Gnar on this testpiece. Stick picks up & over first two bulges (good rock pro). Power up a finger/hand crack. Climb an overhang to gain a WI6 hanging curtain. Pull the lip, and ascend WI3 ice to top. This is an all trad ice climb.

It is 30m. Climb thin ice to a rock crack. There is an interesting hammer jam midway. Delicate rock and thin ice moves keep your attention. A key right hand jam in overhanging rock bit connects 2 very positive left hooks. Finish with moderate ice above. This is great fun.

Protection 

Nuts & cams to 4 inches, with emphasis on fingers to hands, screws, longs slings for big trees at top.

Toprope Protection 

2 trees at top with long slings to below rock band. Go right/downstream to tree 40 feet down. Watch for your rope dropping into water.


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By chad umbel
Jan 18, 2017

Gear and beta - climb up and over easy bulges with good sticks to gain Jesus's crack. Get up as high as you can on the big ledge and place a bomber yellow TCU or the likes. Easy drytooling up the crack with positive hooks (#8 offset aluminum or bigger). About midway up the crack, encounter the low crux (0.75 or 0.5). Once past first crux, make more easy drytooling moves with good constrictions for tools to establish yourself at the base of the steep crack finish to gain the ice. Great stance to totally shake out and place a bomber #3 or #4. Hand jam or fist jam shake. Reach up as high as you can from a low tool or fist jam, and stab in another cam where the roof goes horizontal (0.75-2" will fit). Come back down and shake, or if you're a cranker, pull up high and left staying in the original crack to positive (but steep) dry tooling out the constrictions on crack. Match (rinse and repeat for a few moves trending right) until you can reach up and over the bulge out right to stick a tool (right hand). Match up and continue for a few moves to pull up and over steeply onto the ice. Home free, easy, rampy ice to the top (two screws feels reasonable). Thank you, Jesus, for building this great route. Asalamalakum.

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