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A route that is better than it looks from the grou...
|June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>|
Although probably not a route that you're going to roadtrip to the Tower to do, this pitch is pretty worthwhile, especially as a warmup for MR. CLEAN (if TULGEY WOOD is occupied). Some stemming (can ya believe that?), a small roof or two, and generally "cerebral" the whole way- not just a stem-it or plug-it pitch, but one to get those neurons firing...
Take the West Face approach. If you can locate the route MR. CLEAN, this route is about 6 or 7 crack systems to the left of it, and climbs an inside corner between two pillars which terminate in ledges about 120 feet up (the left-hand pillar has a large square-cut roof above it).
This route is the 2nd crack to the right of BLOODGUARD.
Mostly stoppers and smallish cams, with a medium cam or two nearer the top. Three bolts provide protection when the crack seams down. Overall protection is good - better than it looks from below.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 22, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Make sure you bring a set of offset nuts (7-11) for this climb. You will miss a couple bomber placements, if you don't.
By Jordan Collins 1
Sep 5, 2016
Offsets would be nice for certain sections, however the route was perfectly safe and protectable without offsets. An awesome route with thoughtful stemming and a little bit of a runout in certain spots.
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Oct 24, 2016
Anchor replaced by Taylor Lais and Cali Terveen on 10/22/16.