Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Shady Side Left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abbey S 
Bandit S 
Big Bad Love (a.k.a. Bill) S 
Budro S 
Butch S 
Doug S 
George S 
HIVD S 
Jerk Off S 
Jorge Cantstaña S 
Julie S 
Mulva de la Doloris S 
Oktoberfest S 
Pipsqueak S 
Rebecca S 
Scott S 
Scottie Pippen  S 
Volver de La Belle Epoque S 

Jerk Off 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,076
Submitted By: Jgar on Jul 19, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
From the bottom.

Description 

Short and steep on solid rock with movement that is interesting for The Tunnel. If you're sick of lock-off high-steps, you can find a little variety here. Jugs to the first bolt and pretty sustained difficulty to the finish, this is the perfect boulderer's route - felt like V0 to V6 to V5 to me.

Start on jugs for a few moves to the first bolt. (You may want to stick clip just in case you blow but if you feel up to a climb like this, you shouldn't have any difficulty clipping it as you go.) Double gastons and a few good pinches lead up and right to the second bolt. Go up to a couple of large ok slopers and work over into a short right facing rail. From here you hit a couple of good jugs and clip the third bolt. A similar sequence above this bolt to a committing move to the juggy seam above leads to the chains.

Location 

30 feet left of Julie/Scott. See topo picture (#8)

Protection 

3 bolts. chains


Photos of Jerk Off Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the chains.
Nearing the chains.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jerk Off.
Jerk Off.

Comments on Jerk Off Add Comment
Show which comments
By DisturbingThePeace
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

If this were twice as long it would be an absolute classic! Sweet bouldery moves all the way. More powerful than fingery with very few of the tunnel slopers.