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Jericho Cliff (Junkyard)

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Jericho Cliff (Junkyard) Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.61129, -73.06927 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,645
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JIncillo on Sep 5, 2014  with updates from Kurtz and 1 more
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Kris working the over hanging section near the top...

Description 

This shady crag lies in the southern portion of the Mattatcuck State Forest. It is approx. 60ft tall and is mostly a Schist-like rock. There are a number of moderate climbs from 5.7-5.10. This crag was included in the most recent CT guide book.There may be some potential for Trad, however much of the rock is soft and placements are tricky. Many of the routes could use a few bolts for a safe lead. While people obviously climb here, this crag does not receive much traffic and has some loose stuff so wear your helmets!

Getting There 

The approach is 5 minutes from the Jericho trail head located on Echo lake road (See photos below. Note: trailhead is not the trail head at the parking lot). Approx. 1/4 mi up the hill from the trail head is a parking area on the same side of the road as the trail head and on the opposite side of the road is a dirt pull out for additional parking. The Jericho trail is marked by a blue sign and blue trail markers. Follow the Jericho trail as it goes directly across the top of the cliff. It is almost exactly 1000 ft from the trail head to the top of the cliff. There is a steep loose approach gully to the bottom on the climber's right side of the cliff (or left side looking down from the top). If you cross any access roads or come to the clearing for the power lines you have definitely missed it.

Climbing Season

For the Western Highlands area.

Weather station 3.6 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Jericho Cliff (Junkyard)
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim standing on top of the fin.

The Route with the Fin... 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Connecticut : Western Highlands : ... : Jericho Cliff (Junkyard)
This route goes up the right end of the ramp in the overhung section to a flake that looks like a fin. work up and over the fin to gain some easy terrain through the middle of the climb. Finish up in a right leaning, right facing corner with some finger cracks....[more]   Browse More Classics in Connecticut

Photos of Jericho Cliff (Junkyard) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Junkyard Bedrock Map
Junkyard Bedrock Map
Rock Climbing Photo: Off-street Parking
BETA PHOTO: Off-street Parking
Rock Climbing Photo: The trailhead is opposite this driveway
BETA PHOTO: The trailhead is opposite this driveway
Rock Climbing Photo: The trailhead
BETA PHOTO: The trailhead
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim working the Arete on the far right.
Jim working the Arete on the far right.
Rock Climbing Photo: A couple routes start in this overhanging section.
A couple routes start in this overhanging section.

Comments on Jericho Cliff (Junkyard) Add Comment
Show which comments
By mickteroo Otero
From: Serenity
Sep 6, 2014
Will you please mark the trail and location of the cliff on this map?
You could take a screen shot of it, then edit it in a Paint program
ct.gov/deep/lib/deep/statepark...
Or at least provide some further description based on the map and I can edit it.

Thanks!
By JIncillo
Sep 6, 2014
I'll edit the description of the approach to be more specific, but it is literally on the blue trail.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
Sep 8, 2014
I've explored extensively in the northern portion of the forest and found the rock quality no so good... Awesome to see there's some good rock on the southern portion though it does seem limited.
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Oct 26, 2014
There is a telephone pole right next to the trailhead that has some spray paint on it . Last time i was there the trailhead was not maintained and was very hard to spot. I have parked on the grassy shoulder right on the main road across the street and a bit up hill without a problem.
By Kevin Johnson
Nov 4, 2014
This is a fantastic winter crag with lots of sunshine, the rock warms up quickly. This relatively small cliff has roughly 20-25 different lines that I have climbed, with lots of variations and some incredible leads. In 2008, someone cleared the top of this cliff of vegetation and brush. Please be respectful of State Land while climbing here.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
Nov 5, 2014
Sounds like someone improving the vista... doesn't really sound like a climber to me but good to make mention of it either way.
By wivanoff
From: Northeast, USA
Jul 14, 2017
Since there's already a cliff named "Junkyard" in central Connecticut, a better name for this one might be "Jericho" - after the trail name and area.

I've heard this cliff called both but "Jericho" would agree with the name in "Rock Climbing Connecticut"
By JIncillo
Jul 18, 2017
Bill thanks for all the route info! I knew someone out there had it! Good suggestion about the name. I'll update the info. It would probably be helpful to have some consistency between mtn project and the published guide book.

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